This is just a thought that may work, so any input is appreciated. During hunting season I got my Jeep stuck because of the limited slip rearend. I was in 4/low and the front axle was just pulling off of one side. So basically I guess you can say I've got limited slip front and rear differentials. Just the other day I was reading a post about linelocks for the brake system and I had this thought. Can I tie into each of my emergency brake cables separately in front of the single cable attachment bracket that runs up to the e-brake pedal, and run a cable for each side to a lever or pull handle mounted inside somewhere so that when I can't get any traction to the spinning wheel, I can put it in a bind and make the other side pull? This would be for just the rear axle and would only be used when needed. I think it would work, but I wanted ya'lls advice and opinions. Thanks in advance.

Was a single wheel turning front and rear?
With a "limited slip" rear axle both should have been turning. If both tires were not turning then you either have an open rear or the clutches in the limited slip are shot. If it is an open rear and you lock one tire with a brake to send all the power to the wheel with traction you are putting undo stress on that sides axle and the spider gears. The wheel that is spinning with no traction is recieving all the power but there is almost no torque involved(because there is no resistance. I would recomend pulling the diff cover to see if it is an open rear(spider gears only) or actually a limited slip(with cluch plates) before deciding what to do with it.

Yes, you can do what you asked, it'll be a little involved to route the cables and the one from the left rear won't be long enough unless you were to put the levers on the left side of the driver's seat. They make a kit to do this for VWs, I built one for my dune buggy.

Be advised that it can act a bit strange though. If you lock one wheel, the other will turn at twice it's normal speed for the same driveshaft rotation. You want to just pull just enough to start loading the spinning wheel until you move.

I think jimmy hit the nail on the head. You probably either have open diffs or real worn out limited slips. I've never had a limited slip but my understanding is that both wheels will get some power but it isn't always a 50/50 split between wheels, it could be something like a 70/30 split, open diffs the tire with the least amount of traction gets all the power all the time. My vote would be to just put lunch box lockers in front and rear. It will be much more simple to drive and also dragging a locked up tire isn't the easiest on the drive train, takes a lot of force to move (try drive with your ebrake on in 4 wheel drive), and as taz stated handles funny (try driving with your e-brake on in 4 wheel drive but adjust 1 shoe so that it isn't contacting the drum).

BarrelRoll

I have an 82 CJ7 and the front and rear are both Open diffs and i have been the same situation where both a front wheel and rear wheel were spinning and jeep going nowhere. Glad i picked up a hijack.

Not sure what is involved with the scenario you described, but Lock Right lockers are only about $250 each for the front and rear, give or take a couple bucks. I just did my rear M20 axle and what a difference it made. I'll be doing my front sometime soon.

Another option is to open up your diffs and weld the spider gears. I'm sure they go under many different names, but a friend of mine calls them Miller Lockers(Miller as in Miller Welder). It’s cheap and it works. My wife’s dad welded up the rear axle on his Suzuki Slamurai and actually made it through the Rubicon. It sure as hell took a beating, but it made it and it still runs.

Anyway there are a few ideas.

Oh and forgot to mention that you'll want to also replace that 2 piece rear axle if you go with lockers or miller lockers. Everyone i talked to and said you will eventually rip it up.

You may have a limited slip - like a Trac-loc.
If you have zero or almost zero traction on one side, they won't work like you expect. The spinning wheel still needs some resistance.
If you do have a Trac-loc, try pulling on the e-brake as it is, or even touch the brake pedal lightly while trying to move.
They won't drive off a jack - unless you touch the brake - then they will. The clutches can't engage without some resistance.

To see if you have a limited slip - jack up both wheels - turn one wheel - if the opposite one turns the same direction - you have a limited slip or real locker. If it turns the opposite way, it's open.

Yes you can do it with cables. However it will require a lot of force. A much better would be hydraulic steering brakes. Pick up any VW magazine. There are multiple vendors. I prefered the dual handle (1 for each rear wheel) vs push / pull type. I had dual handle setup on a Samurai rear end. I eventually went to a locker. [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]

Here's a driving tip for what you're experiencing

Yesterday when I got home from work I got under the Jeep and brushed off the axles and found the stamped code for the I.D., and according to the info I got from LEVE about a year ago, I have limited slip differentials with 2:73 gears. So my next question is, does anybody know the ratio of slippage from one side to the other, and is it a major task to change the clutches, and where do I get the parts, dealer or aftermarket, and is there a beefier set of clutches than stock? Thanks in advance. Oh, and my axles were stamped with DD, which should be a TRAX LOCK diff.