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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2004, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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33\'s or 35\'s?

Here's the dilema:

I came across a deal on 4 brand new 35" ProComp Xterrains for $375. (A deal I couldn't pass up.) This whole time I've been setting up the Commando to run 33". (3" lift on custom springs, and a 2" body lift.)

I'm running a 401, so power isn't necessarily an issue, but with 3:73's and a stock dana 20 T/C, I'm not starting with the best of crawl ratio's. I doubt that even with the 5" of lift that 35's would fit properly w/out some fender trimming. I also have the stock Dana 30 up front which, from reading prior posts, may not be up to the task of 35's. I'm not opposed to trimming if it is worth it for the 35's.

Here's my question: Given the drawbacks (fender trimming, worse crawl ration, more likely to bust an axle, etc..) do the advantages of running 35's over 33's make it worth it to keep them, or should I swap them for some 33's?

BTW, though I do plan on doing some moderate to difficult wheeling, I'm not necessarily a "balls to the walls" type of driver.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 04:29 AM
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

Well, realistically, you're only gonna gain an inch of ground clearance with the 35's, and your center of gravity's gonna be a touch higher. If you built it for 33's put em on. Pro Comp's having a buy 3 get one free deal till the end of March...cost you about $100 more for a set of brand new 33's. Head to your local dealer and check it out. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 08:08 AM
 
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

I disagree. If you are going to do any type of hard wheeling you need ground clearance and every little bit helps. I went from 33's to 35's to 37's and now run 38.5 SX's; I would of saved a lot of money if I would have identified what I wanted to do (harder trails) and built towards that goal from the get-go. Build it big, when it breaks, upgrade it.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 08:26 AM
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

Might depend on what you have for a tranny. An auto will make up for some of the low gearing as does a granny first gear. If you've got a T150, you might suffer some until you can regear. I know lots of people who run 35s with the front 30. IMHO they hold up better than some people give them credit for, although keeping the 30 maintained and being careful with the go-fast pedal won't hurt. You have enough room to fit them now, if you HAD to you could a LITTLE shackle lift to help more. I'd at least try the 35s, then if your not happy make the change. Good luck and lets see some pics when you get them mounted. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 09:19 AM
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

I don't have or really want to directly answer your question, but.......
I would never want to go back to 33's for even the moderate wheeling I do.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 11:06 AM
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

Increasing from 33 to 35 - a 6% change.

6% lower R's for the same speed.
6% more torque required to turn them.

But the footprint - contact patch, is much more than a 6% increase = more floatation, more grip.

1" more clearance.

He He - I'm told 1" CAN make a difference!
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 11:42 AM
 
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

ANY extra ground clearance off-road is an advantage. That said I have to disagree with the statement that you`ll only gain an inch going from 33`s to 35`s. There is a 2" difference between 33" & 35" BFG M/T T/A`s, and while that may not be the case with the Pro-comps, I`d still bet its more than an inch. Don`t worry about your t-case, its up to the task. With 3.73`s you crawl ratio is going to be wanting off-road, but on the brite side your going to have some long legs on the highway [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]. Your D-30 front is a weak point, but I would run it and see what happens. With the style of front hubs your running, pay close attention to the wheel bearings for lubrication and coming loose. I`ve seen lots of spun bearing races in the early style hubs.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 01:06 PM
 
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

I gota say that 35's are nice though i run 35's with 3.07's and a 231 (about the same gearing as 3.73's and a dana 20) with a puke and go and i'm lacking low range grunt big time. The clearance is real and you can run most trails on 35's. Shaving your diffs and raising you skid plate will also make up for the differance. If i were you i'd keep the 30 and get a spare set of shafts and spiders and see what happens.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 04:15 PM
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

True the difference between 33 and 35 is 2". But most of us have the axles in the center of the tire, so it's the radius that counts for clearance.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 04:37 PM
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Re: 33\'s or 35\'s?

I drive 33's w/ a stock CJ-5 (44, 30, 20, T-18, 304) with a 4" lift. I do "difficult" trails w/ them. If you don't have a T-18 or a 4:1 transfer case you will be very frustrated trying to wheel either tire. I say get the 35's and don't look back. If you get the 33's you will regret it, it will just be a matter of time.
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