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MNT 03-04-2004 06:11 PM

manual line locks??
I did a search, but everything seemed to be through an electric solenoid. I am thinking that you could maybe plum the brake line through the cab and have a manual switch for each rear wheel. Has anyone doen anything like this. I would think this would be better than having to worry about the electrc solenoid getting too hot, but then you have to all that brake line re-routing. Thoughts?


Infernozx 03-04-2004 06:29 PM

Re: manual line locks??
Break re routing is stupid simple.

It could all be hard lines.. no need for soft lines..

just run the lines under the tub.. and have the valve stick through.. the way a switch does through a pannel.

Harlequin 03-04-2004 06:32 PM

Re: manual line locks??
I had a pair of Jamar Line locks ( in my last CJ. They worked as expected but they also would not release at times. I'd have to open the bleeder valve to make them let go.

CJ7Taz 03-04-2004 06:58 PM

Re: manual line locks??
What are you trying to accomplish? I don't quite understand why you want one lock for each rear wheel. If you're after something to load one wheel, you might check out some dune buggy sites. They used to sell a dual lever brake system for the rear wheel. Pulling the proper level would stop a spinning rear wheel or it could be used as a steering brake like a tractor.

WILL 03-04-2004 07:49 PM

Re: manual line locks??
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
What are you trying to accomplish?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds like he wants cutting brakes like H8.

MNT 03-05-2004 10:32 AM

Re: manual line locks??
Yes, we are talking about cutting brakes. I remember reading sometime back that somebody had a toggle switch, but that must be electric. He would toggle left for left brake, right for right brake, but then you would need two solenoids, and if you wanted a very short term parking brake, then you can't lock both wheels at the same time. Maybe you would need a third solenoid.

The solenoids are fine, and it is easier to run electrical than brake line, so that would work for my application, I just thought it might be simpler to have manual locks. I even checked out the mico-locks but they are fairly cost prohibitive (and if I remember they are electricaly controlled also). Do you know of any good dune buggy sites. I would check those out.


thorjeep 03-05-2004 10:39 AM

Re: manual line locks??
Be carefull though. I am sure you read this in the old posts, but it is worth repeating. The electrical solinoids are designed for very short-term holding, more momentary than anything. I have heard the personal accounts of people using them locked for an extended amount of time fine, and others which burn out real quick. I wouldn't trust my Jeep to be held in place where a burned out solinoid, or a sudden loss of power could set my Jeep a 'rolling. I am sure you would have no problems with cutting, just be leery of using them for an e-brake.

WILL 03-05-2004 11:13 AM

Re: manual line locks??
Here's a write up the H8 did on his:

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I dont have any diagrams, but they are very simple. And I have a few pics.
The 2 line locks are mounted at the rear axle on a bracket,(It sure seems like I spend a lot of time making brackets).

The brake lines are ran from the "T" at the axle to each line lock and then to there respective brake assembly.
The line locks are controled by a single wire to each unit( plus their ground wires, at the bracket), running from a set of switches on my stick shift.
To operate you simply press the brakes, then push the button the side you want to actuate, when you release the brakes, the side that is locked stays locked due to the fluid being held in check by the hydraulic solonoid(line lock), the indicator light next to the switch indicates if that line is actuated or not.

[/ QUOTE ]

CJ7Taz 03-05-2004 11:34 AM

Re: manual line locks??
Sorry, I haven't kept up on the dune buggy sites. My dune buggy has been inn storage since 1983. One of these days I'll give it to my son, he used to love standing in the seat and jerking the steering wheel back and forth from the time he could stand.

When he reached the terrible twos, he grabbed the garden hose and stuck it in one of the exhausts, trying to fill it with gas I suppose.

The setup I was talking about is basically two single master cylinders with levers on them. They don't have reservoirs on them but rather connect inline in the rear brake lines. The line from the original master cylinder connects where the reservoir would have been.

You pull the left lever to apply the left brake or the right lever to apply the right brake, assuming you hooked them up correctly. The amount of pull on the levers controls the braking pressure applied, just like a tractor or a dozer. Releasing the lever released the brakes.

If I'm remembering correctly, some also had a third lever in the center with a ratchet mechanism. You would pull up the center lever to lock both rear brakes and then push a button to release them.

I'm not sure how they did it, but there was something special about them so that if the brake pedal was applied, they didn't let fluid in behind the cylinder if the lever was pulled.

I'm just guessing that they still make such a thing. It was years ago that I saw them added.

RRich 03-05-2004 01:33 PM

Re: manual line locks??
They are still around. Check dune buggy or speed shops or search the internet for "steering brakes" or "cutting brakes."
There are several types around.

The third ratchet lever in the middle was a mechanical lever that pulled on the mechanical E-brake. They were made to fit the VW lever and ratchet.

You run the brake line from the master cylinder to the cutting brake, then individual lines to each wheel. If you wanted to add a mechanical line lock (1), simply put it in the line from the master to the cutting brake. You could mount it right beside the the cutting handles - easy.

The electric solenoid type would be much harder to use as a steering brake - like on a steep sand hill in a decent - push the button, step on the brake hard (may not be such a good thing at the moment to lock all 4 wheels), then let off, letting that wheel stay locked. When you no longer want it locked, find that button again!

Rock crawling it wouldn't be so bad, but it has several operations when you already have your hands (and mind) full.
Either way, you don't have much control over how much lock you get. You don't always want it to lock, sometimes just drag a little.

The lever type - just grab it, pull as hard as you need, then let go!

Of course the obvious - THE LOCKER MUST BE TURNED OFF!

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