OK - This is for anyone who has built an upstairs or is a contractor. I am thinking about building an upstairs (having someone else build) on my house. The costs where I live a very prohibitive. My question is what is the ratio of the framing/shell vs the finishing work. I am comfortable with anything inside, I just don't have the time to learn and build an upstairs. My idea (depending on costs) is to have the contractor do the walls and siding/windows/roof and interior framing. I would do everything else. Again, I am just looking for a ballpark ratio of costs 50-50, 10-90 whatever.

Thanks

You might have to have an engineer either design it or approve your design. I know California has strict building codes but don't know if they require an engeineer's stamp for residential construction.

Yeah they do. I have to have a soil engineer come out, a surveyor and a structural engineer after the design is done. I am trying to add a fairly large upstairs and don't want to go through all that expense if it is too much. If the cost for the outside was half, then that would be ok but if the outside is 80 or 90 percent of the building cost, then I have to think of something else.

Thanks

hmmmmm ................... ok, your wanting to remove your roof and put a second story on an existing one story house? Is that the case?

I have personally done that about a half dozen times (as a contractor).

There is no ratio that is standard for finishes to rough carpentry. In fact no matter what people tell you, there is no "standard" price per square foot to build either. That would be like saying to a car dealer "how much does a car cost per pound"? It depends on what you want to have.

With that said, the price to frame and "dry in" this project (if it is as I assume above) will weigh heavily on the amount of demo and care that needs to be taken in the transition of the roof coming off and the floor being brought up to code, and keeping your existing home dry during the process. This will depend on what you have.

Usually ceiling joist can't be used as floor joists so the framing contractor has to frame a floor in-between the ceiling joists. Now, in some areas (of the country) you will need cross bridging if the floor joists span more than 10 feet and solid blocking over partition walls (for fire code). This will interfere with the existing ceiling joists. It gets complicated.

Then, depending on the code enforcement, your existing footing, and the placement of load, you may be required to reinforce your footing for the extra weight you are adding.

So, what I'm getting at, is that my standard unit prices for framing don't mean a thing in this situation. There is no way to tell.

Wow, ok that makes sense to me. I know that I will have to do reinforcement done for the added weight of the upstais. I have seen the ceiling joists and would bet that those have to be upgraded.

I guess I need to get my design done, and then go from there.

I just hate spending a bunch of money on the design if it is going to be too cost prohibitive.

Oh, and you are exactly correct in your assumption of what I am trying to do.

Thanks for the input.

It all depends on what you are actually putting in this room. I'm going to assume there will be electrical, but is there going to be any plumbing? Both of those will most likely need to be aprroved by codes, and will make quite a difference in your interior cost. What type of fixtures do you want? Windows/doors/trim/faucets/vanities/lighting/flooring can also make or break the budget. Basically, the exterior cost is going to be what it's going to be. Your surveying, soil testing, and framing is not something you will get much variation in pricing. Your interior has so many options from low end to high end that it's hard to say. I don't know the costs for your surveying or framing needs, but unless you are just putting in a few outlets/lights with sheetrock walls and cheap carpet, then I'd say you'll spend more on the finish work. Just my guess from the vague idea I have in my head of what you're doing.

And another thing you may not have taken into consideration is whether or not you have an adequate electrical supply and breaker box to accomodate this addition. Most houses are built with the bare minimum to run what they are built with.

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solid blocking over partition walls (for fire code)

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This may be part of the fire code but it is structurally essential too. It is needed for shear transfer. Last summer/fall I worked with a structural engineer inspecting homes that were underconstructed and coming up with a repair design. Everytime the contractor left out the blocking over a support, the joists' bottom flanges were crushed. When it was left out of the ends too, the joists would roll. Blocking is very important.

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A <font color="red"> good </font color> architect will be able to tell you how much the project will cost. And even draw it to fit your budjet. He will help you with value engineering, code issues and any concerns you have. Get a free consultation, and tell them "I want to dry this in for $xxxxxxxxxx.xx" at that point you will be told if you are out of line.


If it is a straight forward project then a good G.C. will be able to quote you a price to dry it in w/o drawings (for free).

Understand also that for a framing contractor to get his inspection passed, the plumber, electrican, and HVAC contractor must first pass a rough in inspection. So, decide: are you handeling the PME's or is the contractor. If the contractor is then that will keep him involved through-out the project (thus holding you to a schedule to finish)

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This may be part of the fire code but it is structurally essential too. It is needed for shear transfer.

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yup, covered that in "cross bridging". It is usually an exceptable and more cost effective way to properly transfer shear load and keep the joists from rolling. Solid blocking is a PITA!!


EDIT- Will, hope that floor dosen't squeak,....you had some nails miss the joists there, and they didn't appear to be ring shanked. Didn't see any evidence of glue there, dosen't mean they didn't use it ..... but.








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Yeah, there will be electrical and plumbing and heating. Once they are there I can do everything else. I can even get the plumbing there, and the elecrical and heating. Will definately have to upgrade the electrical coming into the house. My goal is to maximize my dollar. I don't have the knowledge or time to build the upstairs myself. I could do it with guidance, but again, no time. I do have the knowledge to run the plumbing, electrical etc. So if the upstairs is "dried in" then I can do the rest at my leisure, and without so much cost.

Thanks again to all. This is all good info.