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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-10-2004, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Sandblasting

Buddy and I are thinking of taking the paint off our respective projects (CJ for me and 68 Mustang hatchback for him) and getting few wrinkles out of the bodies. We settled on sandblasting the shells, but I am not sure which media to use: glass, plastic, walnut shells, etc. Any opinions or experiences?

I thought that topic was discussed on the forum before, but I can't find it
Here is some info that I found.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-10-2004, 10:48 PM
 
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Re: Sandblasting

I've seen someone with OBA drive onto a beach and sandblast the entire under carriage. [img]images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

Sift, load, blast.
Sift, load, blast.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2004, 06:44 AM
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Re: Sandblasting

You want to use the least aggressive media that will work, and that will depend on the type and condition of the paint. If you can find a supplier of 'metal finishing' products, get samples of several media and try them out.

But are you sure you want to blast? The bounce-back and overspray can damage anything in the area that isn't well masked. Plus the dust gets everywhere, and is probably loaded with toxic nasties. I'd try chemical paint strippers first.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2004, 02:35 PM
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Re: Sandblasting

Sandblasting will work...go with about a 60 grit sand...but you will need a lot. You need to wear a mask...the silica in the sand is not good the the lungs....not to mention the paint. The other option is sanding.

However, I'm not sure what you will gain. Truth is, if you only have one coat of paint on the metail...and it's not cracking...then it makes a better under coat than bare metal...why strip off something that is already stuck on real good. I would just sand down to the primer. It will also be easier to get out minor dents and other defects. Otherwise, you are looking at a lot of primer and a lot of additional color sanding.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2004, 04:27 PM
 
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Re: Sandblasting

I sandblasted my Jeep frame last fall (I know your talkin' bodies, but some of this still applies). I'm mostly going to echo the sentiments of Jim_Lou and DDawg16, with a few details of my own experience.

I used a 20 gal. pressure blaster similar to the ones you linked to. I have a 6hp 30 gal. compressor that would not keep up. I could only blast for 20-30 seconds before it kicked on, then maybe 30 more at diminishing psi before I had to stop and let it fill back up.
It took a lot more time than I expected. 3 or 4 sessions at about 2-3 hours each, that includes suiting up in safety gear, waitng on air, and cleaning up a little bit afterwards.

It also took a lot more media, in my case #70 sand, than I expected. I think I used 9 60lb. bags and did not finish the whole frame before the weather got too wet and I bagged it for the season. I probably did 80% of the frame and the mounting surfaces of the tranny skid. The sand was $4 a bag. It would cost a lot of money to do what I did using the comparatively expensive media in your link.

I played with it on some amc eagle sheet metal that had decent paint and no rust and it worked pretty good, no deformation. Still took a long time to do a small area. Also did a Subaru roll bar for a buddy, took a real long time because the spray vs. the tube = not much direct contact area.
I also tried #30-40 sand and it worked OK on the paint but would not do much on the rough texture of the frame.

I'm sure there's more I'm not thinking of right now, but maybe this will aid in your decision.

I have since gotten a quote from a sandblasting shop to do a Jeep frame, an hour or so depending on undercoating etc. That must be one hell of a machine compared to what I used. I am curious to see how much it takes off in one swipe, I had to hit every square inch, OK every square 1/2 inch, seriously.

Oh, and I can't even imagine doing it to something that is assembled. There is no text bold enough for Jims everywhere. Just think seals, hoses, bushings, splines etc. Mask the crap out of everything you don't want gritty/dusty.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2004, 05:54 PM
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Re: Sandblasting

I have used an industrial sand blaster before that would take a 2 inch swath out at a time, but on a body you have to move fast. I would too recomend the solevent striper or just painting over if the pain is decent. I will probably take my 2a body to a chemical dip striper cost 125.00 here and they even top cote it with primer for 50.00 more..
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2004, 09:00 PM
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Re: Sandblasting

Strip the paint first. Sandblast the rust spots. If the body isn't rusty, there's no need to go down to bare metal.
post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-13-2004, 03:41 PM
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Re: Sandblasting

If your going to blast at your house or in town you might want to try black beauty abrasive a little more $ but less dust, might want to check city laws. There is also other non-silica abrasives out there. Hope this helps. Eric [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-13-2004, 07:37 PM
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Re: Sandblasting

I would not sand blast the body totally, Just the spots that are rusting.The factory prime/paint job is the best you can get.Sand the majority of it down to the original paint,and the rusty sections only down to bare metal,via blasting. Then prime and repaint.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-18-2004, 07:33 AM
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Re: Sandblasting

I just used a mini grinder with a wire brush attachement and it took only a few minutes to grind a rust spot down to bare metal. See pics.
before grinding:

after grinding:

done with primer: (just to protect the metal till I get the dent fixed and the jeep painted)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1264497-beforegrindinga.JPG (80.0 KB, 1 views)
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