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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 10:09 AM
PalmettoJeep
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Avoiding the dreaded \"spun nut\"


Avoiding the dreaded "spun nut"

I'm wanting to remove my factory skid plate as well as shackle brackets from my frame to treat some rust, and I've heard horror stories about spinning the nuts welded inside the frame.

While I know there is no guarantee, what is the best way to avoid spinning these nuts? I'm planning on multiple treatments of PB Blastter before starting, what else do people recommend ?


Q) Should I apply the torch to "warm them up" some first ?

Q) Is a lovingly tap or two with a hammer on the bolts a good idea before starting ?

Q) If I have a nut that seems stuck, is using an impact wrench a good idea or asking for trouble?

Q) What is the best penatrating spray to use?


Look for my upcoming post, "what to do once you have spun a nut" !!!

rick
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 10:22 AM
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Re: Avoiding the dreaded \"spun nut\"

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Q) Should I apply the torch to "warm them up" some first ?

[/ QUOTE ]1. Yes, to RED hot... and then let 'em cool (2 hours)
2. This breaks the rust bond. </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Q) Is a lovingly tap or two with a hammer on the bolts a good idea before starting ?

[/ QUOTE ]3. Nope, this ain't a place for a bigger hammer. </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Q) If I have a nut that seems stuck, is using an impact wrench a good idea or asking for trouble?

[/ QUOTE ]4. No, you're not asking for it,
5. You've found it! </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Q) What is the best penatrating spray to use?

[/ QUOTE ]6. I favor:[*]Break-free[*]PB-Blaster[*]Kroil lube
7. Both Kroil and Break-Free are gun lubes,
8. I've seen 'em work apart force fit parts!
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 06:53 PM
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Re: Avoiding the dreaded \"spun nut\"

LEVE's reply is right on.
But I will add....I like PB 1st.

Do the heat trick, let cool, then presoak for a week in PB. Usually works like a charm.
(but I never want to wait that long so I usually have to pay the piper and whip out the torch and welder before it's all done [img]images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img])
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 08:40 PM
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Re: Avoiding the dreaded \"spun nut\"

...if your replacing the metal at or around the bolt area just torch the bolt out...if you you want I tighten most useless bolted objects tighter to snap them off before they spin. Also if you run out of PB Blaster(awesome god juice) make a 50/50 mix in any plastic spry bottle of either ATF and kerosene or ATF and diesel(both are non reactive to one another, I have placed both mixes in bottles and placed outside in summer or winter temputures for extended periods before they entered my house. Use your best judgement this is only a recumendation, if your house burns down it is not my fault [img]images/graemlins/cussing.gif[/img]. It was told to me by a good friend whos been around since Henry Ford and WD-40 was made. just my two cents not to out-rule the jeep gods.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 10:04 PM
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Re: Avoiding the dreaded \"spun nut\"

Why is it the ones you think will snap off don't, but the easy ones always do?

And - why is it the ones in the most difficult places to reach are the ones that break?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 10:09 PM
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Re: Avoiding the dreaded \"spun nut\"

...it has to do with Murphys Law, and if anyone knows where I could find that guy [img]images/graemlins/AR15firing.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/thud.gif[/img]
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