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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2003, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Job

Hi there

I was thinking about replacing the seals on the valve of my 258. I was also told that it would take an hour or and cost about $5 for new seals. Then i thought I read in Chiltons that the valve seats on the 258 aren't servicable which makes me think the job will take much longer and cost more than $5.

I really have no idea though...any thoughts/comments/suggestions?

Thanks
Patrick
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2003, 05:37 PM
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Re: Valve Job

look again my friend seats and seals??
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2003, 06:25 PM
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Re: Valve Job

seals are on the valve :seats are on the cyl. head
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2003, 08:03 PM
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Re: Valve Job

Yeah .....if you mean seats ..then, yes, more than an hour and much more than $5.

I imagine that since you said 1 hour and $5 however, that you're referring to "seals". It will cost you more than $5 still ...but it's cheap. You need a compressed air supply, a fitting to plumb the air to the spark plug hole, and a tool from (what used to be called) the KD tool rack at your local parts store. If you have a decent piece of flat stock and a vise you can make your own.

You loosen and remove the respective rockers of the cylinder in question ...the air keeps the valve in place ...the tool allows you to compress the spring and remove the keepers .....you put your new umbrella seals (or whatever the 258 uses).....recompress the spring ...replace the keepers ..whack it to make sure that the keepers are in place correctly ...voila~ move to the next cylinder.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2003, 08:47 PM
 
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Re: Valve Job

You have to be very careful with this method, (air in cylinders). Unless you have a light touch you may wind up with the valve dropping into the cylinder. All it takes is a little bump to loose the seal on the valve letting the air out and the valve will drop. This is also a good way to find out which valves are burnt [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]. The air will leak out around them.

I like the old nylon rope trick [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Take about 3' of 3/8 nylon rope and feed it into the spark plug hole on top of the piston, but don't stick it all in [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

rotate the motor till the rope is compressed, you can do this by hand on the harmonic pulley up front. remove the keepers and spring and replace with new. this works well but takes a little more time. has to be done on each cylinder.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2003, 09:04 PM
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Re: Valve Job

I've heard of this technique from LEVE ..but have never seen it in practice.

The only problem (if you call it that) with the air technique that I've encountered is that sometimes the keepers/retainer is somewhat stuck to the valve stem. It sometimes takes a couple of attempts to get it to seperate. Once the keepers are removed ....I would think there would be nothing to compell the valve to drop. The valve has to be extended and the spring compressed for this to happen. Now if you had a loss of air while doing this ...then sure. This is not to argure with you ...nor to say that this something NOT to worry about ...more obscure stuff happens all the time that baffles the heck out of me on how it would happen. [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

I've used compressed air to determine if valves were burnt as well. Listen at the carb ..listen at the tail pipe. One Misubishi 1.6 had valves so bad that the gas actually sprayed out the carb when air was put in the cylinders. [img]images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
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