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Brake Pad Replacement - Need Help

639 views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  jeepsr4ever 
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#1 ·
I am attempting to change the front brake pads on my 97 TJ. Can someone who's done this before give a hand? Here's where I am stuck:

Using the haynes manual as a guide, I got the new pads on, but since they are now thicker than the worn pads, there isn't enough room now for them to go on both sides of the brake disc.

The Haynes manual talks about using a srewdriver to suppress the brake piston to open it up to make room for the new pads. However, the narrative nor the picture doesn't show exactly what I am supposed to suppress to level the piston back and open the caliper. I tried to press it open with my hand, but no go.

How is this done?

Many thanks.

 
#2 ·
Please, do us a favor, fill out your profile. It's always nice to know who we're helping out, and what their name is. But I'll assume your name is Mike(mikeinta).

I think you want to use a long screw driver as kind of a lever to force the piston back into the caliper. Make sense? Or if you have a large c-clamp, that would work too. If I use this method, I usually plop a piece of wood in between the c-clamp and the piston. Are you resurfacing the rotors as well?

 
#3 ·
Personally, I wouldn't use a screwdriver. While I've never changed pads on a jeep, I have done all my other vehicles which actually have pads. I use a deep socket or pair of sockets (smaller set inside a larger) to give me a surface to which I can place a C-clamp. I wouldn't want to score the surface of the cylinder and risk having the brakes hang up. Keep in mind that when you compress the piston you will force break fluid beyond the reservoirs capacity.... suck a little of the extra out with an inexpensive turkey baster as you go. Put the fluid back in when your done. The manual should actually guide you pretty well other than the hint about the sockets. Good luck.
 
#4 ·
Go to Autozone or Advanced Auto and get the proper tool. I can't find a pic on the net, but it has a flat plate the shape of the pad with a screw shaft like a C-clamp running through it. They're cheap, they are a lot easier to use and much less chance of getting the piston cocked in the bore and causing problems.
 
#6 ·
It's not really a good idea to suck brake fluid out and reuse it. Regular brake fluid will absorb moisture out of the air. The more you fool with it the more moisture it will collect.

DOT 3 is cheap and and should be replaced periodically anyway. The moisture brings oxygen with it and causes corrosion in the master and wheel cylinders. Especially so in a vehicle that is exposed to more water and mud than the average.

Which is a good time to suggest DOT 5 Silicone fluid. Last time I got some it was $23.59 a quart, but I recommend it highly. I converted the CJ in the early 80s when the wheel cylinders started weeping. I rebuilt all the cylinders, flushed the lines and filled it with silicone fluid, and haven't touched the hydraulic system since. Last year when I swapped the front axel, the seals on the front brakes were still powder dry.
 
#7 ·
many times aftermarket brake parts are not DOT 5 compatible e.g line locks and other hydraulic components. most jeepers arent running these, but as an overall heads up it is something to be aware of on any vehicle you work on.
 
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#8 ·
I can't seem to remember why, but I believe that it's not a good idea to use DOT5 on a daily driver. I think it was something about it being able to compress a little or something along those lines. It's been a long while, so I can't remember exactaly. The DOT5 was made for vehicles that sit for extended periods of time like show cars and such. For regular useage, use regular brake fluid.
 
#9 ·
Really! Silicone is so benign that it's surprising that it wouldn't get along with anything. I'd never heard that. Can you remember where that advice came from?

As far as use in a daily driver, it's been in my CJ for around 20 years and I can't speak too highly of it. It's never caused any problem of any kind. In fact there hasn't been a single hydraulic problem since the switchover. Any idea what's supposed to not work properly with it? The only downside I see is its price, but it's made up for that with longevity and kindness to the seals.
 
#11 ·
the only thing i can think of is line locks. they are constructed differently for dot 5 vs all 3 and 4. the reason i though tof it is im installing a hydraulic parking brake on the old heep and there are 2 diff models depending on what type of fluid you run.
 
#13 ·
I just went to www.belray.com, a vendor of DOT5 silicone and learned quite a bit. Most important is that silicone and glycol fluids are not compatible. When mixed they will coagulate into a thick goo. All rubber parts should be replaced when converting from glycol (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) to silicone. That's what I did 20 years ago, and haven't had a bit of trouble.

Also, in talking about motorcycles, they say that silicone has a slightly softer feel in the brake handle, although another site mentioned that silicone is more difficult to bleed, but just as hard if bled completely.
 
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