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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2003, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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waterproofing ?\'s

I've been having a bad time with keeping the old 89 5 speed/4 cyl running after going thru water, trying to restart takes some time to go and the weird thing is it restarts easier if its jump started from a friend pulling it. My airfilter is inside under the dash via a vacuum hose. My guess is the distributer and wires are getting wet, i've read about a small bead of silicone to seat the cap good but how about the wires, do they need dioelectric grease? Thanks [img]images/graemlins/thud.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2003, 11:31 PM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

This is where we Jeep at on the weekends. Silicone rope around the base of the distributor works well, as you can still remove the distributor. If you are sealing the cap air tight, you should tap it and run a vent line to prevent oxidation on the terminals. Plastic bags or shower caps around the distributor are also popular, although I don't use one. I use diolectric grease on the plugs and cap. I snorkle my air the same as you, but have my air cleaner siliconed and taped water tight. Some of the guys use double carb gaskets and o-rings on the wingnut insure that it stays dry. While stuck in the pic, it was still running like a champ.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-24-2003, 05:03 AM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

The weak links I've come across most often are sealing the top of the carb to whatever you are snorkeling to and water finding ways into the dist. Check and make sure you are truely staying dry at the carb. The general's right about the rope caulk, plastic bags, and silicone grease. I grease all of my dist connections including plug wires on both ends. I also run a rubber mat on the passenger side of the engine bay, between the inner fender and engine block. This seems to reduce the amount of splash getting to the dist side of my 258. You can use a rubber floor runner type mat or mud flaps for this. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-24-2003, 06:59 AM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I also run a rubber mat on the passenger side of the engine bay, between the inner fender and engine block. This seems to reduce the amount of splash getting to the dist side of my 258. You can use a rubber floor runner type mat or mud flaps for this.

[/ QUOTE ] 1. Jarret, that's interesting,
2. Can you post a couple of photo's of this?
3. Mud-flaps for the engine?
4. Who'd a thunk it? [img]images/graemlins/thud.gif[/img]
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-24-2003, 07:43 AM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

Don't forget the Fan blowing all that water around at whatever RPM.

Clint
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-25-2003, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

Thanks for the replys, I will check into the carb gasket since i've seen muddy water stains inside it and definately silicone the d-cap and wires for protection... [img]images/graemlins/goodpost.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-25-2003, 10:33 PM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

Clint hit it on the head. The fan sends alot of water into the engine compartment. haveing a fan clutch helps, i got rid of my mechanical fans and have 2 electrical fans, hooked up to an on/off switch, i can turn it off when i go through deep water. and really use common snse, as to not do a SPLASH DOWN at Mach 3 into the water, that is an easy way to do alot of damage.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2003, 08:26 AM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

Hi LEVE, took some time to get pics to work and size them down. Nothin fancy, but I have good luck with this set up. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]



Theres a couple more pics in the attachment.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2003, 02:19 PM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

jdogg, don't know why but the photo wouldn't show up on my computer. I'll try it again and see if it works.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2003, 04:36 PM
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Re: waterproofing ?\'s

Well, get rid of the mechanical fan first. Anything you do doesn't really matter until you quit flinging water around under the hood. Make sure you have your wheelhouse rubber flaps covering enough so when driving in the water your tires aren't splashing underhood.

Next, put dielectric grease on everything. You can get it from most electrical supply shops for the cheapest. Dielectric grease is not the same as anti-oxidant grease so don't buy that. Put it around the base of the cap as well. You may have vents and drains in the distributor cap and base so look for them. I don't recommend blocking them off but baffling them would be good. Make sure the coil is sealed still along with no cracks in the spark plug wires. If the wires are tired it is time to get new ones. Water just promotes spark jumping from the boot down the insulator to the metal. GM HEI people usually RTV the coil into the cap but you can't exactly do that.

Now that you've got the electrical and spray problem solved it's time to go after other engine related stuff. You have to track down all vacuum lines and make sure they are in working condition. If you happen to have a charcoal canister you should disconnect it from the PCV system and plug the lines on the canister and the line going to the gas tank. The throttle body/carburetor needs to be sealed if it doesn't vent into the air cleaner. The breather element for the PCV system must be taken care of. There is no easy solution for this because they tend to be pretty leaky. Don't forget to RTV the oil dipstick tube at the base.

The air cleaner system is an interesting issue. I don't worry about it because as long as water can't splash in I never plan on being in water that deep. Once you start getting into water deep enough to submerse the air cleaner you need a sealed distributor.


This will get you so you can operate it at waterpump height water. If you want to operate it any deeper you should've bought a submarine. Running it any deeper and you're asking for trouble with the distributor, sucking it in around the valve covers, through the crankcase breather, in the air cleaner through any one of the seams, et cetera. Not to mention at waterpump height you already have your pulleys flinging water all over the place under the hood.
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