Hey guys,

My 2000 TJ (Sport, 4.0, 5sp, 3.07:1, 31's) seems to have a bit of an oil consumption problem. I have yet to verify, but I have to act quickly as the factory 'bumper-bumper' is only good until Aug 2nd, and 60,000 KMs. Currently I'm at about 59,000 kms (~37,000 miles).

Anyway, I bought the Jeep a week ago, they did a fresh oil change on it then. Since then I've put 600-650 Km's on it. I checked the oil this morning (while it was cold), and the level was reading right between the 'full' and 'low' holes on the dipstick. I'm assuming that when they did the oil change they filled it up properly...

Has anybody else experienced this? I couldn't find anything like with the search.

Thanks.

I would take it in and tell them that they changed the oil, and that since then you have lost oil. They should do tests on it to see if the engine is burning oil. One of my old trucks was burning lots of oil and they (stealership) were able to confirm for alot of money that, yes, indeed the engine was burning A LOT of oil. This was a diesel, dont know if it will work for gas engine but I dont see why not.
Since it is still under warrenty, TAKE IT IN!!!

Phil

I already have an appointment. I'm getting this consumptions thing on record NOW so that if it takes a while to prove it will have atleast been reported before the warranty expires.

I had a similar thing happen with my '95 Honda Prelude SRV. It's warranty expired at 160,000 Km's, and at 158,000 it was burning some oil. I took it in, they topped it off, said they measured it to be .4L that it took. They told me to come back when i noticed the oil was down next time. So it got down to close to the 'low' line so i brought it in. 1900 kms later. They added .8L to it this time and told me that they'll fix it if it's 2L or more in a 2000 km distance.

I mean, they have to have a line drawn as to when they fix it, but c'mon, almost a liter in 1900 kms... geeze!! That's a lot for a car that's supposed to run forever. It should have been .5 in 2000 or something like that. After that you know there is a problem coming.

I thought oil was to be checked at operating temp???
John
[email protected]

Temp doesn't matter much...you just want to shut down the engine and let it sit long enough to let all the oil drain to the pan.

Auto trans you need to be running and up to temp.

1. Where do you think the oil's going?
2. What do the plugs look like?
3. What does the inside of the tail piple look like?
4. What's the air filter look like?
5. Is there any leakage detected on the garage floor?
6. Is there any oil in the engine coolant?
7. Have you checked for TSBs?

1. Where do you think the oil's going? - Must be getting burned up.
2. What do the plugs look like? - Didn't look...
3. What does the inside of the tail piple look like? - Didn't look...
4. What's the air filter look like? - Checked when I purchased the vehicle, looked fine. If there was a problem with this, I'm sure it would have shown then.
5. Is there any leakage detected on the garage floor? - No.
6. Is there any oil in the engine coolant? - Didn't check.
7. Have you checked for TSBs? - The dealership did when I bought it. It's up to date.

My girlfriend gets home soon from work. I'll go down and check the plugs and stuff once it's had a chance to cool down.

Thanks LEVE.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I've had friends follow me around a little on the weekend when we were going places. If it was burning enough to make a smoke show out the back (and hence leave noticable residue on the tail pipe) I'm sure they would have noticed.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Must be getting burned up

[/ QUOTE ]1. Humm..
2. IMHO.. you don't really know this...
3. It's an assumption that you've got to cure,
4. Because you now own a Jeep.
5. You've got to start getting in the habit,
6. Of doing you're own detective work...
7. Because it's only gonna get worse.
8. And you need to free yourself from the dealership...
9. You might as well start now....
10. So get on your old clothes,
11. And start looking.
12. Or you're only going to have old clothes...
13. Because all you money will go to the Dealership.

Well I think you're making a fairly broad assumption here too. Let me cure that first. :-)

Not a single penny more then necessary will go to the dealer now that I own the Jeep. Not in labour anyway. I have done all of my own mechanical work to all of my vehicles ever since I have a memory. Everything from engine re&amp;res to tranny conversions, to pumping up a flat. The reason it's going to dealer on this one is because it has factory warranty left. And if that will pay for a ring job or a valve seal job, then all the better. It's going in for a few things that I've noticed in the last week such as:

1. Passenger door lock isn't working properly.
2. Tailgate is leaking water.
3. Make and program a 2nd key that they didn't have ready when we picked it up.
4. Make a record of the oil 'issue' in case we can't prove it before the warranty expires.

None of those things will cost me a cent. And they will be under strict instructions to do no work on the vehicle that would contradict this statement (aside from any stupid warranty deductible anyway...).



Since that's over with, lets get back to the problem...

When I checked the coolant when I purchased it, it was a perfect green. No dark spots at all. This was before I drove it for the first time, it had been sitting for at least 4 hours. Any oil of that magnitude that would have been in the coolant would have been noticeable from the top of the rad. Also there would have been some in the overflow. Both looked fine. I didn't do the necessary tests because of the low KMs on it. This is where my 'assumption' comes in. If it's not on the floor, not in the oil pan, and not in the coolant, it's gotta be going out the pipe.

Anyway, I have an idea of what I'm doing around a vehicle, the reasoning behind asking here was to ask a wider audience if anybody else has had this problem. For instance I know that cyl #4 on 2000 Honda S2000's loses compression prematurely when you boost or add N20. I was hoping for an answer along the same lines such as, 'Oh yeah, Y2K 4L TJs all had a bad valve guide seal on the intake on cyl #3 that would cause the problem'.

Thanks for your help.... I'll let you know what I find out when I have more then 30 seconds to check under the hood.

I was hoping for an answer along the same lines such as, 'Oh yeah, Y2K 4L TJs all had a bad valve guide seal on the intake on cyl #3 that would cause the problem'.
hmmmmm......
actually I can only offer the opposite...
I have a 2000 tj 4.0 and I know of at least 3 others with them..a quick poll indicates exactly what I see.. I loose NO oil between changes...43000 miles