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-   -   Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question (https://forums.off-road.com/jeep-short-wheelbase/171393-wiring-team-rush-upgrade-question.html)

itsaposcj5 07-16-2003 03:05 AM

Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question
 
I am trying to wrap up the wiring on my Team Rush upgrade for my 360. I am trying to tie the white wire from the control module into the red wire that comes from the ignition and goes to the coil. What is the best way to tie the two wires together if both ends are already terminated?

Based on the wiring diagram it shows the actual distributor being grounded. Does the distributor really need to be grounded? I have grounded the black wire coming out of the control module. If I need to ground the distributor what is the best way to do that?

Jim_Lou 07-16-2003 07:15 AM

Re: Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question
 
The best way it to clip the existing terminals, strip a half inch of insulation. Slide a piece of heat shrink over one wire. Twist and solder the wires together. Lightly coat the soldered area with liquid electrical tape. Slide the heat shrink up and shrink it.

The distributor is well grounded through the block. Wiring diagrams show the ground symbol because the diagram has to show the completion of the circuit.

itsaposcj5 07-16-2003 10:41 AM

Re: Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question
 
Thanks for the help Jim.

I was hoping to not have to clip the end. I need to tie in the wire from the module into the middle of the ignition wire which is terminated at the switch or fuse block (I can not seem to remember right now) and at the coil. I was hoping to hear a good idea on how to "T" off the existing wire without running the module wire to one of the ends of the ignition wire. Any other ideas?

Jim_Lou 07-16-2003 11:23 AM

Re: Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question
 
You can still do a soldered splice. Cut the ignition wire and strip 1/2" from each end. Twist the wire from the module with end that will point up, and slip the heat shrink over the two. Then twist the other end of the ignition wire onto the two. When you get that far you'll have an upsidedown Y with the heatshrink on the two arms of the Y. Then proceed as before.

The reason for the upsidedown business is that it will make it a little tougher for water to seep in, and the wire from the module won't be hanging so as to pull the heatshrink open.

If you want to be able to remove the module you can splice in a short pigtail as above. Then you should use a water tight bullet connector - the kind with a nice rubber boot on each part. They're used in a lot of places in the factory harness, but I don't know where you can get them. Maybe a boat store.

Otherwise you'll have to use a regular male/female spade connector. Be sure to use the female on the ignition wire (hot) end. Before you plug them together put some electrical contact grease on them to keep them from corroding. Call me a mossback, but I solder spades on instead of using the cheap crimp connectors if it's anything important.

Underhood wiring is one area where it pays to be very meticulous. If you slap it together (use those in-line SkotchLok connectors for example) it will certainly work, but it's also likely fail eventually.

itsaposcj5 07-16-2003 11:56 AM

Re: Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question
 
Perfect. Thanks again for the help. I have used connectors to connect the module to the wiring harness just in case I need to pull the module. I have also used a weatherpak connector on the distributor to make removal easier.

Now the next problem will be making sure it starts after I am done wiht the wiring.

Brhino 07-16-2003 09:38 PM

Re: Wiring/Team Rush upgrade question
 
I do what Jim says and then I will add a dab of silicon to the end where the two wires come out. You also could glob a little extra liquid wire insulation there. The heat shrink will force most of it out and then just wipe off the excess. Better water proofing.


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