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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2003, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Replacement steering shaft? Borgeson/Flaming River

Any difference in these two companies? I am getting a replacement shaft for my stock CJ power steering setup. I have a 1" body lift. Any opinions on which company makes a better shaft?

Thanks,
Tom
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2003, 11:32 AM
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Re: Replacement steering shaft? Borgeson/Flaming River

I'm running the borg unit. Made a difference in my steering. It comes bare metal so you need to paint it. No expericence with flaming river.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2003, 11:38 AM
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Re: Replacement steering shaft? Borgeson/Flaming River

For about $115 you can buy the standard Spicer U-joints and yokes to make a good shaft out of a stock shaft. Welding and drilling is required.

Besides saving a C-note you retain the crash-collapse feature of the stock shaft. And it will be several inches longer than stock because the Spicer joints and yokes are longer.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2003, 12:55 PM
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Re: Replacement steering shaft? Borgeson/Flaming River

If you have a stock height will the longer shaft work or will you have to cut it down to keep the stock length?
post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2003, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Replacement steering shaft? Borgeson/Flaming River

Hey Jim_Lou,

That sounds like a good idea. Do you have the spicer part numbers? I have a $100 4WD Hardware certificate I am going to use, but I might use the spicer joints on my other CJ.

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Tom
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-14-2003, 08:30 AM
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Re: Replacement steering shaft? Borgeson/Flaming River

Jeep CJ Steering Shaft Upgrade

Parts, all Spicer:

1 SPDL 10-4-661SX Yoke
1 6109 10-4-1011SX Yoke
2 SPUJ 5-170X U-Joint
1 SPDL 10-3-83X Yoke
1 SPDL 10-4-93 Yoke

The first 2 yokes fit the steering column and the gearbox splines, I don't know which. The last 2 yokes fit 1" keyed shaft. I think that the 83X is the slip yoke. Also needed is about 8" of 1" keyed shaft. My cost for all this was $136.44

To maintain the stock length I cut a few inches off each end of the stock shaft. After trimming, the shaft still has the full collapse distance of the stock shaft.

I cut about 2" of the 1" keyed shaft for the steering box end of the new shaft, and about 6" for the steering column end. Then I put each piece into the lathe and drilled into the end to make a snug fit over the stock shaft. After checking overall length and aligning the keyways, I fillet welded them together.

I set it up so that the female section of the steering shaft is up, so that it can't hold water. I also put the slip joint at the upper end because things are a little close at the bottom, with the frame, power steering hoses, and lower radiator hose all competing for space.

After that I painted and assembled the joints and yokes, and installed the new shaft. It works great. The slip joint has enough engagement that I can easily remove the shaft without messing with the steering box or column. And all the joints all have zerk fittings so that they can be greased. Everything is standard Spicer parts, although the supplier I used didn't keep the splined yokes in stock.

Be aware that late-model steering boxes have a larger input shaft, so they will need a different splined yoke. I don't know about the steering column spline.

My recollection is that I cut about 6" total off the stock shaft, including the stock joints. And I think that one could cut a little more without getting into the collapse space if you wanted it shorter for some reason. And of course, you can make it as long as you want it by using more 1" keyed shaft.

I thought that I had taken some pictures, but I can't find any. Next time I have the fenders off . . .
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