Hi all,

I am a 1976 International Scout ll Terra owner, but figured you guys new all about Dana 44's. First off, forgive me it this has been covered to death. I tried the search function, but did not find what I was looking for.

My Rear Dana 44 leaks badly from the pinion seal and the Right Wheel end seal (picture of axle attached...just in case I am way wrong and don't have dana 44). I have never done any work on axles before. As far as I can tell, I have the 'Unit bearing' type of axle. I have a service manual for my rig, but am looking for any pearls of wisdom when it comes to pulling axles and re-sealing. Any and all suggestions welcome!

Thank you!

-Richard

Attached Images

File Type: jpg

1145829-Rear_diff.JPG (63.2 KB, 61 views)

hey man
you got a dana 44 there. I can tell you how to overhaul a C-clip axle but I have never had any experience with a non-c-lip axle. can you find that out and then reply to this. I will be back later and keep checking for your response saying if it is a c-clip or non axle. what the heck let me just describe how to overhaul a c-clip axle and you can apply this information to a non c-clip axle if that what you have. oh and if you have no clue what a c-clip does is it retains the axle except in the case of the axle breaking (I speak from experience of first week of owning my new jeep).

~jack the rear end up by the axle pumpkin then place jackstands under the axle tubes, and remove rear wheels. ~take heavy hammer and bang on rusty brake drum to vibrate it loose. bang it like your torqueing down a wheel on a car with for lug nuts. now remove the drum by pulling and jiggling the drum. you then need to disassemble the brakes (springs, shoes,etc) on the rightside and possibly to remove axles tho I doubt it, but inspect how much brake pad life you have left, oh and check the left outer seal for signs of oil waste 1 whole can of brake clean on your passenger side shoes (if they have lots of life left) and on the drum if that is within maxium diameter spec and is not warped or linings arent in too too bad of shape.
~unbolt rear cover, drain fluid, and scrape all remains of old gasket. use brake clean (different from brake fluid) to make oil less thick and drip better and to get all the metal shavings out if your axle is in bad shape.
Now if its a c-clip axle follow these instruction til I start talking about removing carrier.
~now if its a c-clip axle, turn the driveshaft until the pinion bolt is visible, remove the pinion bolt (like a 5/16's wrench needed) and maybe something else. then push axles into the the housing but be very cafefull not to rotate the axleshafts unless u like to spend an hour and then giving up on putting spider gears back in place. now collect the two C-clips that dropped somewhere in the housing. then pull the axles straight out do not I repeat do not twist or rotate them.
~now if u look at the differential there are 2 bolts on each side of it remove all four of them along with their straps. and some how get the carrier out
~now to the front remove the rear driveshaft from the pinion yoke and zip tie the shaft to the vehicle. dont let it dangle for it wil cause failure to the u-joints
~take an impact gun and unbolt the pinion nut then with a puller remove the yoke from the shaft
~ then remove the pinion. inspect ring and pinion gears for damage.
~remove old seals then replace them. but to insert them correctly into their place without damaging them use a socket for a ratchet that fits over the metal partin the center of it and bang on the socket with a hammer. you want to use a socket b/c it applies even pressure around the seal.
~then replace everything and torque it to spec's, and make sure if there were shims used on the sides of the differential carrier put them where they came from
~use blue rtv when making your new gasket between the diff cover...its cheaper and easier then a gasket but the surfaces must be clean and oil free.
~with wheels on the ground fill axle with oil through the plug in the diff cover.till oil pours out of hole replace cap
~VROOOMMMMMM AWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! maybe go rockcrawling now

SAND SUX!!!!!!

oh yea man I ment to tell u to check ya wheel cylinders for leaks. they are the things that operate the brakes hydraulicly. they are easy to overhaul if needed but it cost about the same to just replace them.

Thank you! I am liking this forum very much [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Upon careful inspection of the wheel ends after removing the drums, I do not think I have a leak on the wheel end after all. I assumed so after seeing all the fluid dripping down the backing plate of the right rear when I filled my diff and drove around (just got the thing runnig good and took out for first time). I did complete break job before this (and I mean everything including new drums) so I think I would have had gear oil in the inside of the backing plate if I had a leak there. The oil on the right rear must be from the yoke and drive shaft slining it everywhere. The rotation going forward would be about right to throw it on the right and not the left...anyway...

I pulled the drive shaft, yoke, pinion seal. Inside I found what looks like a shim, then the outer pinion bearing. The bearing looks kinda ok...couple of pits on a couple of the bearings. The race felt fine, but did show a couple of brown spots on it. So...do I need to replace this bearing, and if so, do I have to reshim for proper end play? Or can I just put a new one in?

The machined part of the yoke did not look too good. Pitting, etc. I am assuming that I should replace the yoke. Another interesting note...I did not have to use a puller to get the yoke off. Once I had pinion nut off, it pulled off by hand...is this a good/bad or indifferent sign?

Thank you again for the great response!

- Richard

I have a non C-clip axle.

- Richard

to check the roller bearings run your finger around and round in circle rolling the rollers that how you check them. and you feel for and odd shapeness

your bearing is trash especiallly if it has pits in it. and yes when you replace it with the one from the dealer (not an auto parts store or else that'l really [bleep] up your [bleep]!!! the yoke sounds bad to me but before you drop money into it show me a pic of the pitting on the yoke. use the zoom on you camera to get it really close up and make sure its sharp. and I was guessing about how to pull of the yoke I have never remove one before.

Well, if one bearing is bad, then all of them are probably bad...so it is time for a rebuild. For now, I am putting the sucker back in and will do rebuild when I have more time! I found a part that slips over the shaft on the yoke to give the seal a good surface for sealing. Am using that for now and will replace the yoke when I do a rebuild.


- Richard

Well, everything is together and working with no leaks!! [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] The rear diff does not make any noise, and seems good. Should keep me for a little while until I can find the time to rebuild it.

Thank you for the help!

- Richard

good job man and I am glad to seeing your loving this forum. and yea when you get time I recommend you replace the bearings that are bad.