5.0 swap help. AGAIN - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-20-2003, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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5.0 swap help. AGAIN

I'm curious if there is any particular reason to leave the air(smog) pump on the engine when I do the swap? Will removing it affect the computer control of the engine in any adverse way? Does it even matter? I have no particular problem leaving it right in place other than I figure it's just a little bit less clutter around the motor if I can get rid of it and maybe I can use the space to mount something a tad more useful, whatever it may be. There is a fairly large hose that runs from the pump and taps into the backside of both heads. There also appears to be some sort of vacume operated valve inline. I'm assuming this valve determines how much air gets pumped back to the heads? Anyone that has any knowledgable input on this is MORE than welcome to speak up or email me.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 12:28 AM
 
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

You can leave all that stuff off unless its required for smog inspection where you live. The donor engine I used already had an air pump delete bracket on it. It just replaces the air pump pulley with a freewheel. You can either get one of those for $30 or just use a smaller belt.
If you disconnect those vacume controls from the main harness the computer will throw a code but it will not affect the engine at all. I just left mine plugged in so the computer thinks they are still there. You also have to remove the tube from the back of the heads and plug the two holes. I found some big bolts that fit but think there is also some sort of plug you can get at the dealer.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 11:15 AM
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

I also left it off. You can run a shorter belt and everything works just fine. I bought three belts from the auto parts store and picked the one that fits the best and returned the rest. The part number for the belt goes like this: First part of the number is the width, that needs to be the same as stock. The last part of the number is the length. Measure your setup with string and use that as a starting point.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ps/index.shtml
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

Thanks for the info. I'm just now getting all my hardware together to gear up for this swap. One of the things I'm lacking is good reference material such as wiring diagrams, etc. Any suggestions as to what I should have and where I should get it? The motor I have is out of a 95 'stang and it's the HO version. I intend to mate it to a AODE-W tranny out of a 96 f-150. I'm pretty good at sorting things out as long as I have good info to refer to. My usual problem is knowing what to get and where.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

Thanks for the tip. Any and all info/tips are appreciated. On that note, take a look at the reply I made to Chris and if you've got anything to add please don't hesitate.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 08:19 AM
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

You might want to do some checking, but I don't think you'll be able to mate the '97 AODE to the '95 'Stang. The EEC programming required for the F-150 tranny is OBDII and probably different than the 'Stang OBDI EEC programming. I think that a non electronic AOD would be a better choice. I also doubt that the engine will run correctly if you just pull off the smog equipment. The fuel tables in the EEC are set up for an operational EGR, except at WOT. You might want to do some research to see if you can find any work-arounds. The 'Stang folks on the 'Stang forums should be able to help with that.
As for the wiring diagrams, the best that I've seen are the Helm's diagrams wiring diagrams They're ~ $12 for the set, and they are available for your specific years, and they're very detailed and complete.

Dean
post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 02:18 PM
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

I left mine off as well. I just took the tubes off the back of the heads and got some of the inserts to screw into the ports, plugging the holes. No problems here, but mine was a '90 Crown Vic motor. And then bought some shorter belts as stated above.

I checked with my "expert" and according to him: as long as your engine requires only two oxygen sensors you'll be fine.

If your's requires FOUR sensors, your CHECK ENGINE light might come on, but your engine should run fine.

Hope this helps.....
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

I "think", think being the key word here that the changes took place in 97 and on correct? The tranny comes from a 96 ford truck and the engine is from a 95 stang. After 95 the mustangs went to the 4.6 modular and I believe that happened in the 97 and on trucks but what do I know. I checked that link you gave me for the wiring diagrams but they don't list anything for the model year I'm looking for. That may or may not mean anything so I think a phone call may be in order. The prices they listed were wayyy over the $12 you referenced. The price for the electrical manual for up to 1993 mustang was over $80. Maybe I'm missing something though. Either way, if it came down to it I'd shell out the greenbacks because I like having good quality manuals for my projects.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

Thanks for the input. From what I'm gathering I should be good to go to remove the pump, and if it turns out to be an issue I can always just slap it back on and hook it up so it's no big deal either way. I'm just trying to unclutter things as much as possible. Where did you pick up these inserts btw?
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 03:28 PM
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Re: 5.0 swap help. AGAIN

I think that the EEC's went to OBDII in '97, but I'm not positive. Even if it's OBDI, there still be programming conflicts between the 'Stang and F150 for the tranny. Sorry, I wasn't clear on the Helm's stuff. I didn't mean the manuals. They also offer copies of the blueprints for the wiring, and they were $12 the last time I bought a set.

Dean
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