How to Check a Hydrolic Clutch setup - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2003, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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How to Check a Hydrolic Clutch setup

I installeda hydrolic clutch setup in my 63 CJ5 bout 3-4 years ago. it worked flawlessly for this time. Until about 4 weeks ago I participated in a parade and it was a day long clutch in/clutch out festival. Needless to say byt the end of the day i was having problems shifting.

And just last saturday i was trail riding and the system started to lose strength. I am using a Wilwwod pull slave cylinder, and a CNC MC that i forget the manu of.

But it seems to lose function after being used all day. It will work in the beginning but it tends to die out later on, or so it did last saturday.

The tranny was jsut recently rebuild and used for about 3 months before this. When the problems start it is usually when t a stop. When ata stop i can't get the shift in 2nd or 3rd, but it will move freely in nuetral. And when i put it into reverse or 1st, it will grind like heck until it finally gets into gear, then it will hold fine at the lights, and shift when the light turns green. When shifting from a stop it does take a little more effort to get into 2nd or 3rd, but nothing that will bend the shifter fork or anything. Just a little bit more effort.

I looked at the stup and nothing is leaking or in bad shape. I bleed the system, and the fluid came out dirty, and i flushed it. The throw on it seems to be moving only about 3/4 inch, which i think is less than it was.

Is there a way to check the slave or MC for pressure or anything?

I am 99% sure it is the clutch system.
The clutch for kis still on te pivot ball. And this system did work flawlessly for 3-4 years when i installed it.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2003, 08:29 AM
 
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Re: How to Check a Hydrolic Clutch setup

that grinding in 1st or reverse usually means the clutch isnt disengaging all the way, just like your thinking hte slave cyl isnt moving as far as it once was, flush it again, and see if there is any more moisture in the system, it MIGHT be time to rebuild the master, slave or, even both.

I would think the fluid would last longer than a few years, but it wouldnt hurt to flush and bleed once a year to prevent any build up in there which might cause some leakage, or loss of pressure=loss of movement.

I have a car that sits almost all year, and its brakes and clutch are hyrdaulic, and it gives me fits trying to keep the fluid dry!

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2003, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Re: How to Check a Hydrolic Clutch setup

Thanks Ozark!!

I went ahead an ordered a new slave cylinder already just incase. I did bleed it and got most of the dirty fluid out, but i will have to drive the jeep and see if it works. Fitting this happens less than two weeks for a Tellico ride [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

So I will drive it first, and see if it works, if not, i will throw the slave on, and try it, and if that doesnt work.. it only leaves one thing else to change. Fortunately the clutch setup is not that complicated.

I am glad you could answer what my suspicions were.

Thanks!!
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