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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2003, 03:33 AM
35inchcj
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front 44 swap

I have been away awhile, and am now back on the go with a 1982 J10 Dana 44 swap for the front, I have a couple of questionsand would be grateful for any input.
1. Since it is a widetrack, it should be cut on the passenger side also to move it away from the oil pan.
2. I will be using my existing outers as I do not want to give up all new brakes, rotors and Warn internally splined hubs, are there any tie rod contacting the diff cover issues ?
3. Any suggestions on welding the trunnions, I was going to use 7018 rods

And a piece of hard learned advice and expensive one at that for anyone else building a locked up Model 30 DON'T,I do not consider myself abusive to my Jeep, I do expect it to perform however, and for the money I put into it, I could have had a44 custom built for me, I cannot keep a 260 ujoint in it.
Thanks for any advice.
Tom
1986 CJ7 NP435 Rear disc, 35's, locked F&R

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2003, 07:20 AM
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Re: front 44 swap

Search for a post titled "Axel shortening tips" I put up about a year ago. It contains the phrase "scissors jack". That should make it easy to find.

The tie rod will contact the front of the differential cover at some point. I don't know exactly what turning radius you can get compared to a D30, but you can turn almost as tight before the rod hits the cover.

It's a questionable practice, but I built a tie rod with a small offset and got turning radius as good as the old D30 - it will turn until the tires rub the springs.

Attached is a picture of the new tie rod, and a stock drag link (since replaced with a link similar to the tie rod). There's no doubt in my feeble mind that the offset rod is stronger than stock. I used a Dodge tie rod which has an unusual adjustment scheme. Both ends have right-hand threads, one coarse and one fine. When you twist the rod it screws into one and out of the other, changing its length by the difference. It's a pretty fine adjustment, and there was no problem setting the toe-in in full-turn increments.

I started with the tie rod off an '84 Ramcharger. It's good and stout, and plenty long. If you buy the rod ends and build one from scratch, be advised that the threads are not standard pitches. You will either have to cut the threads on a lathe or buy special taps at about $20 each.

And 7018s will work fine. As always with 7018s, just be sure that everything is sparkly clean before you start laying in the hot glue. They don't like crud in their path.
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