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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2003, 10:31 AM
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Model ID and brake problems

After way to busy a year with work, I'm finally getting around to work on the jeep I bought last summer. My first question is the actual model of my jeep. The previous owner said it was a 52 M38, but now I don't think so. It has a split windshield like a 2a, but i thought it had just been switched out. But it also has a model 41 rear axle and a tailgate, both, I think, would also indicate a 2a. Is there any other features that would indicate the model ID. It has tool indents on the passenger side. Is that a clue?

My other question is the rear brake (10" x 2"). One rear drum was rubbing the backing plate. I thought this was due to an obviously bent wheel causing the the drum to cup in when tightened. I replaced the drums, shoes, and wheels. The one side is still dragging along the backing plate. Can the axle hub be adjusted out, moving the drum out slightly? The shimming procedure for axle end play seems like it would also shim the backing plate, worsening the problem.

Sorry this is so long and hope I don't sound like a moron. I'm still very new at this and would like to do most of the work myself.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2003, 11:18 AM
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Re: Model ID and brake problems

1. Will, elcome to the forum (better late than never).
2. Thanks for completing your user profile:
3. Read the New Posters Message at the top of the forum.
4. Participate! Two brains are better'n one!</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Sorry this is so long and hope I don't sound like a moron.

[/ QUOTE ]5. We're this true... we're all morons...
6. ID'ing a Jeep can be a challange,
7. Look at the serial or VIN numbers,
8. You can also do a title search,
9. But like most Jeeps, it's a little of this and a little of that...
10. So in reality, it's not anything but what you and the PO made it.
11. IMHO... you've got a bent axle.
12. You may want to look at....

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2003, 04:01 PM
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Re: Model ID and brake problems

Leve,
I thought it might be a bent axle also, but it shows rubbing all the way around the drum and only one location on the backing plate. If it was a bent axle, wouldn't be the other way around? The backing plate and axle tube appear straught.

As far as ID goes, my jeep is too far gone ever to be original and I really don't want to restore it. I just thought it would good to know if I need to swap body parts.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2003, 04:30 PM
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Re: Model ID and brake problems

1. It would depend on how badly the axle was bent.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2003, 07:04 PM
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Re: Model ID and brake problems

I have a 51 M38. Im not sure about a 52 model but mine has a compartment between the windshield and the hood for the second battery for the 12 volt system. Mine has the split windshield aslo but when you get something that old, lots of things could have been changed. Mine is pretty much stock and I would like to keep it that way. Someone on here might know of a couple good sights to help you out. I think alot of them didn't have a serial number or a stamp on the frame if it is a M38. But then again I might be wrong, I haven't got to do a whole lot of anything to mine, except for driving it a few times.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2003, 09:21 PM
 
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I had the same problem read this!

I have a 67 CJ-5, and I had the same problem. Yes, the rear wheel bearing adjustment can be the culprit! I have the 2 piece rear axle (factory setup). I guess your 41 is the same way?? If not this might not help any. Here goes:
I swapped in 11" rear drums, no problem. About 2 years later, I go to swap in a powerloc diff. I ended up breaking the diff center pin by (I think) not paying attention to the axle end play adjustments. I had one side not shimmed at all and the other side way shimmed, instead of somewhat equal. I think the axle end that was in further actually butted against the pin and broke it. Well the powerloc, wiht its broke pin, never differentiated (acted like a spool), so I pulled it out and saw the problem. So I buy a lockrite locker the new high speed one that doesn't click. Nothing like throwing money at a problem! So I put it in and OH NO with no centering block in the diff I can't get a end play adjustment!! The bearing race seats in the bore and the axle still has like 1/8" endplay!! I didn't have a choice had to drive it that way for 2 days, and it resulted in the problem you described. I tried hammering in the race and then putting some modified shims behind it to get a squeeze with the backing plate but it still rubbed. This is because the face of the axle flange, where the drum sits, still is moving in relation to the backing plate, even though the endplay was better. I agonized over this for awhile and tore it down. The only way I would be able to get an end play adjustment would be to put the diff rubbing block into the diff, but I didn't know if it would work with the locker. TALK ABOUT LUCKY, THE BLOCK HAD TO PUSHED IN THRU THE AXLE SHAFT HOLE and it just barely was able to tap it past the splines in the locker. It couldn't have fit better than if it was machined for it. Anyway this gives something for the axle shafts to butt against and get an adjustment. I was careful to use about an even number of shims on each side and work back and forth till it was right. SOOOOOOO........ you could have an aftermarket diff with no center rubbing block.....or you could have to many shims on one side and not enough on the other....
I am not at home now..... my Jeep and manual are in Hawaii and I am in California.... I have a reprint of the factory manual... get a copy and really study the order things are assembled... then tear yours down and see what is put together wrong, or worn... may even find you have an aftermarket diff that doesn't allow endplay... there was nothing about this in the locker manual, I just figured it out and got lucky that it worked...if I had a detroit or ARB that wouldn't allow the insertion of the rubbing block I would have been screwed!! I guess a solution would have been one piece axles that don't require endplay adjsutment, or a full floating conversion, but these both cost big money (to me, I am a US Marine) and the Jeep is my basically stocker with 30" tires and the Buick v-6 (I've found that I enjoy driving it as much as my lifted CJ-7, sometimes more-ONLY IN A JEEP!) Sorry so long, I'll be home on the 25th if I can help any more!












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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2003, 08:32 AM
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Re: Model ID and brake problems

Thanks for all the info, Greg. Had to read it twice, so much there. I do have a locker in the rear and that may be causing the problem. I'm going to pull the axle this week and check everything out.

Silent Bob, My jeep also has the battery compartment in the cowl section. Does this mean it's an M38?
post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2003, 03:32 PM
 
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Re: Model ID and brake problems

Glad I could help. I just re-read my post and can see some of it might be confusing, if I can help any more drop me a line. Just to clarify when I pulled out the broken powerloc and put in the lockrite no slip I had to reuse the open diff case I pulled out and (luckily!) saved. It was a disgusting time pulling that stuff apart numerous times trying different things to get it to work. Make sure you have new seals and gaskets as necessary when you dig in. In my case there was a inner axle seal that goes in the axle tube end, the axle hub seal that bolts on the face of the brake backing plate, and of course the axle housing cover gasket (I went through 3 of those!). Also I made sure I had a new axle shaft flange nut and "key" (for the 2 piece axle) just in case one was buggered up. You probably know all this stuff! In the end all is good, I really like the locker's performance so far, I just notice a little tug going around corners and getting off and on the gas, and no ratcheting noise!
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