Join Date: Sep 1999
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I had the same problem read this!
I have a 67 CJ-5, and I had the same problem. Yes, the rear wheel bearing adjustment can be the culprit! I have the 2 piece rear axle (factory setup). I guess your 41 is the same way?? If not this might not help any. Here goes:
I swapped in 11" rear drums, no problem. About 2 years later, I go to swap in a powerloc diff. I ended up breaking the diff center pin by (I think) not paying attention to the axle end play adjustments. I had one side not shimmed at all and the other side way shimmed, instead of somewhat equal. I think the axle end that was in further actually butted against the pin and broke it. Well the powerloc, wiht its broke pin, never differentiated (acted like a spool), so I pulled it out and saw the problem. So I buy a lockrite locker the new high speed one that doesn't click. Nothing like throwing money at a problem! So I put it in and OH NO with no centering block in the diff I can't get a end play adjustment!! The bearing race seats in the bore and the axle still has like 1/8" endplay!! I didn't have a choice had to drive it that way for 2 days, and it resulted in the problem you described. I tried hammering in the race and then putting some modified shims behind it to get a squeeze with the backing plate but it still rubbed. This is because the face of the axle flange, where the drum sits, still is moving in relation to the backing plate, even though the endplay was better. I agonized over this for awhile and tore it down. The only way I would be able to get an end play adjustment would be to put the diff rubbing block into the diff, but I didn't know if it would work with the locker. TALK ABOUT LUCKY, THE BLOCK HAD TO PUSHED IN THRU THE AXLE SHAFT HOLE and it just barely was able to tap it past the splines in the locker. It couldn't have fit better than if it was machined for it. Anyway this gives something for the axle shafts to butt against and get an adjustment. I was careful to use about an even number of shims on each side and work back and forth till it was right. SOOOOOOO........ you could have an aftermarket diff with no center rubbing block.....or you could have to many shims on one side and not enough on the other....
I am not at home now..... my Jeep and manual are in Hawaii and I am in California.... I have a reprint of the factory manual... get a copy and really study the order things are assembled... then tear yours down and see what is put together wrong, or worn... may even find you have an aftermarket diff that doesn't allow endplay... there was nothing about this in the locker manual, I just figured it out and got lucky that it worked...if I had a detroit or ARB that wouldn't allow the insertion of the rubbing block I would have been screwed!! I guess a solution would have been one piece axles that don't require endplay adjsutment, or a full floating conversion, but these both cost big money (to me, I am a US Marine) and the Jeep is my basically stocker with 30" tires and the Buick v-6 (I've found that I enjoy driving it as much as my lifted CJ-7, sometimes more-ONLY IN A JEEP!) Sorry so long, I'll be home on the 25th if I can help any more!