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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-16-2003, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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MC2100 help

I'm finally giving up keeping the Holley 4 bbl tuned in. Too touchy and too big even with the Clifford package that came on the 258. I picked up an MC2100 from a 79 304 (Tag #6DM2) off ebay for 10 bucks and intend to try it. My question is about the gasket height from the intake to the base of the carb. What would be appropriate? Is it trial and error or is there some way to figure out how much height there should be?

Currently the Holley 4bbl sits on a 1/2 inch plate attached to the Clifford intake. The 2100 came with the stock plastic/fiber stand off and gasket. That is also about 1/2 inch and looks like it acts as a heat shield for the powervalve as well (I'm thinking I should keep that). The 4bbl to 2bbl adapter plate looks like it would be at least another 1/2 inch judging by the pic in the Summit catalog.

If it has any impact, the intake manifold has no heating element/coolent flow for cold starts but the 258 has dual outlet headers that generate quite a bit of heat once its running.

Any help would be appreciated...
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-16-2003, 03:32 PM
 
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Re: MC2100 help

I have no idea what would be the ideal height of the spacer between the carb base and the plenum. But, if you want a cheap source of a spacer that fits the MC2100 exactly, go to your junk yard. Almost all the Ford's have an EGR plate this is approximately 1" thick and fits between the MC2100 carb base and the ford intake manifold. You could unbolt
the EGR assembly and epoxy the port shut.

Whether it's optimal or not, I wouldn't doubt that Clifford or Offenhauser simply intended you to put the carb right on top of the adapter that bolts to their manifolds (factory spacer and gasket between of course).
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2003, 08:31 AM
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Re: MC2100 help

No Matter how tall the adaptor is, Keep that fiber spacer. It is for Heat protection. The 2100 Carbs will runn like Poo when they get hot. It can be a real problem, and you want to keep it as far away from the hot manafold as possible.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2003, 10:25 AM
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Re: MC2100 help

Another Q on MC2100's, for those of us trying to do this carb swap with a factory 2-barrel manifiold. Once that adapter is in place it doesn't look like a very path for the air flow out of the carb into the smaller holes of the manifold. Is it worth some grinder time to try and smooth that out? Does it really matter for an engine that won't be revving that high? I am assuming the water jacket in that factory manifold is no where near manifiold inlet so that if I do grind on it I won't punch into it.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2003, 10:38 AM
 
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Re: MC2100 help

I think it would be worthwhile to do some grinding and blend the transition. I had my MC2100 on a cast iron intake, and didn't bother to port match. I now have a GM TBI unit on the aluminum intake and went heavy on port blending. I can tell you that you can remove a lot of metal toward the outside edge of the ports and not hit water jacket. Whether it's worthwhile or not, is an unanswered question. I didn't like the look of the mismatch and would think it did some harm at both WOT and part throttle where the throttle plates tip the flow onto that sharp edge. Go for it, it certainly can't do any harm.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2003, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: MC2100 help

Thanx for the reply. I guess I will just leave all the plates in place and see how it goes then. I hope heat isn't that big an issue with the 2100. The headers really throw a lot.
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