EGR Valve question - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-31-2002, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Cliffside, NC
Posts: 138
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
EGR Valve question

I'm having trouble getting my CJ7 to idle. It has the Weber 38 carb on it. The hose that goes to the egr valve was connected to it. I pulled it loose and the engine will idle fine. I can hear the hose sucking in the air. The post that it was connected to on the egr valve is just a post. I couldn't tell it didn't have a hole in it until I fealt the bottom of it with my finger. Is the egr valve supposed to have a hole in this post so that hose can pull air through it or does this hose need to be connected somewhere else? Thanks, Andy
east116 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-31-2002, 03:38 PM
Way Outta Control
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: usa
Posts: 10,815
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Re: EGR Valve question

It "feels" like just a stud, but if you look closely it's
got a pinhole in it - a restriction.

Sounds like you have the wrong vacuum source to the EGR
valve. There shouldn't be vacuum there till higher unloaded

If you can't locate the right source, leave it disconnected,
but plug the hose.

RRich is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-31-2002, 03:46 PM
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR Valve question

The Weber38 on a 82 258 does not use the EGR. With the Carter carb, vac lines ran from the EGR to the TVS on the Air Cleaner Assembly, and from the TVS to the CTO. Remove these vac lines and cap the EGR and the CTO.

There should only be one vac port on the Weber, this is where you connect the existing vac line from the distributor (hopefully it is still Tee'd to the CTO). Make sure your manifold vacuum is capped off too, you only need ported vacuum. Double check the condition of all the hoses to be sure you're not getting any leaks.

Next, set your timing. A good rule of thumb is 8* BTDC. Then set your idle screw and jets to their baseline settings by:

1- turning the idle speed screw all the way out so that it no longer toughes the accelerator cam, turn it back in until it just touches, then turn in an additional 1/2 turn only.
2- turn both idle jet screws in gently until they just bottom out, then turn them back out 1 full turn only.

Then follow these instructions to tune for Lean Best Idle

If you're not using a fuel pressure regulator, don't drive it much until you get one or you risk damaging your float and/or accel pump and then you'll develop hard starting. If you do have one installed between a new/clean fuel filter and the carb, make sure it is set within specs (2.5-3 usually, but no more than 3.5psi). Also be sure that the fuel line remains below the fuel inlet port on the Carb. If it runs downhill to the carb, you'll get poor idle, flooding, stumbling, hesitation and hard starting.

This should get you squared away, let us know how it works out. Good luck -
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome