258 is tic-tocking....help! - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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258 is tic-tocking....help!

So after months of carburetor troubles, manifold leak troubles, etc, I finally have my 258 running smoothly. It's a truly beautiful thing. EXCEPT.

I have a ticking sound coming from the mid-engine area. Either from the head or the area directly below the head. The ticking will start, increase in volume for about 4 seconds, and then dissapear for about 3 seconds. Then it will do it over again. It's like clockwork, the 4 second/3 second thing. It's certainly much more noticable on a cold cold start, but the ticking doesn't ever completely go away. My engine is running smoothly otherwise... I've flushed the engine out and changed the oil, gone to different viscocities, and I can't get it to go away.... Any help and or ideas as to what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
YJ
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

btt anyone?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 09:01 AM
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

I have had the same noise coming from my 88 with a 258 since just after I bought it. It sounds like you hydraulic lifters aren't pumping up. Usually means that they have to be replaced, or time for a rebuild. [img]images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 11:49 AM
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

try changing the oil and subbing a quart of atf for one of the quarts of oil. mine had ticking lifters and they shut up when i fed them atf. marvel mystery oil works too.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

isn't subbing a quart of ATF going to do more harm than good?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 12:01 PM
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

no, atf is just lower viscosity oil with added detergents and maybe some solvents. anyway, it will clean out any gunk deposits internally in your motor. btw, what's your oil pressure reading while it does this?
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

My OP is well within spec, although it drops a tad when I get that tic. Hence my suspicion that a faulty lifter might be to blame. I've taken a look at the rocker arm action with the valve cover off, and it seems to be fairly normal.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 12:40 PM
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

1. Rule out the easy stuff first.
2. A mechanic stethascope should confirm the tick's a lifter.
3. How about a cracked exhaust manifold?
4. Perhaps a bad exhaust manifold to head leak.
5. Perhaps a bad exhaust tick.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 01:23 PM
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

If it is a lifter, you can put your finger on a rocker and
"feel" which one it is. Takes pulling the rocker cover off
of course.

Since the noise is cycling, I wonder if the cam's walking?
It should stop the cycling up and down as you lightly
accelerate or decelerate the R's.
The changing RPM forces the cam to one end of it's travel,
but holding it at any particular speed it will walk again.
You don't have to snap it, just slowly let the R's change
up or down.

But hopefully it's the exhaust leak, much easier to cure.

Poor man's stethescope - a hunk of heater hose held to the
ear.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-23-2002, 02:02 PM
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Re: 258 is tic-tocking....help!

RRich, </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Since the noise is cycling, I wonder if the cam's walking?

[/ QUOTE ]1. Good Thought.
2. Can you elaborate a little?
3. Lots of guys out there don't know just what cam walk is. CAM WALK is a condition which occurs with roller tappet camshafts, as a result of the forces of the cam being driven from one end, and also from the forces of the lifters on the camshaft. This problem is aggravated by the lifter bores being slightly mis-aligned in some blocks. Cam walk is the primary reason for "cam buttons," which are installed in the front of the cam to butt-up against the timing cover on engines which are not factory equipped with such counter-thrust devices (i.e., Chevy). The Ford has a "thrust plate", and many aftermarket gear drives incorporate their version of a counter-thrust washer, mainly because the gear drives need more stability than timing chains. In any event, they are a good idea, on any engine with a roller cam
4. It's not hard to see,
5. but it's nasty to cure.
6. Just rotate the engine by hand while observing the camshaft. If you've got cam walk, it shoud start to move toward the front of the engine.
7. This also casues problems with the dristributor gear...
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