Re: Rear Cantilever Setup - Problems/Questions
Most anything will work, but to what degree?
Consider this - take it to the extreme - what if one end of
the shock was on the axle, and the other end was attached
to the frame but at the same height? Like the pic is
canted in but way more, really flat.
The shock would do absolutely nothing.
Remember the axle rotates with spring wrap - on braking or
acceleration - symptom is wheel hop, breakage etc.
Say on braking hard - the axle nose tries to tilt downward.
The shock attached to the axle behind the axle goes into
collapse mode, hardly resisting the torque.
The shock attached in front of the axle goes into stretch
mode, resisting much better - it's doing most of the
That doesn't mean the axle doesn't rotate, it just slows it
down to a more tolarable level.
If it rotates too fast it can break things, cause wheel hop,
even cause a loss of driver's control.
And a little trick - you can multiply the effectiveness for
the wrap control by the lower axle shock mount itself.
Measure the distance from the center of the shock's lower
mount (pivot) to the center of the axle tube. That's the
Double that distance you double the wrap control without
affecting the "up/down" body control or stiffness.
But too long that long moment arm will work against you too.
As the body bumps up and down, the shock tends to try to
rotate the axle, so keep it reasonable.
Sometimes subtle changes in the geometry can be used to make
up for location and clearance problems.
The use of the radius arms completely eliminates the axle
wrap tendancies, so the shocks can now be placed wherever it's
Those are great pictures by the way, thanks.
"IF" there was a PERFECT way to do it -- everybody would do it
the same way.