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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2002, 01:58 PM
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Timing Chain Question

How many degrees of play should I see in the timing chain before I should consider it a problem? I am measuring this by setting the number one cylinder at TDC, putting a wrench on the big metal thing hooked to the front of my crank(just kidding) and watching my rotor for movement.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2002, 02:13 PM
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Re: Timing Chain Question

5* is marginal.
7* is toast...
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2002, 03:44 PM
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Re: Timing Chain Question

You don`t mention how many mile`s you have on your motor, But if you still have the stock pieces on the engine and it`s already apart, I`d install a new double roller gear and chain set.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2002, 06:15 PM
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Re: Timing Chain Question

[img]images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] LEVE....are you saying 5 degrees on the crank with no movement of the distributor shaft? [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] I once knew an old-time mechanic who brought camshaft sprockets to us at our machine shop so we could cut new keyways for him. He would take the sprocket off and then figure out where to make a new mark and cut a new keyway to ADVANCE THE CAM to make up for the wear on the front ramps of the cam. People always commented on how "peppy" their cars were after he worked on them and it was because on aged engines he would always do the cam advance trick while he was re-doing the worn timing chain. [img]images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2002, 08:20 PM
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Re: Timing Chain Question

LEVE's absolutely right. Over 7 you are running the cam
pretty late and have already lost power. Much more than
that you are in danger if it jumping.

I've seen them as much as 18 - didn't have to take the gears
off to get the chain off! Would have gone any minute like that.

Those specs are maximun slop by the way. Turn the crank in
one direction to get all the slop on one side of the chain, stop,
then reverse direction of the crank.
However far you can move the crank back now is your number.

Interesting to note -- most late model engines are already
running a slow cam for emissions purposes. Most are already
3-5 degrees retarded straight from the factory.
Just the simple act of putting on new aftermarket gears and
chain gets rid of that (good ones,) back to "straight up."

Check into performance type true roller chains and gear
sets - they aren't really all that expensive.
Many have several keyways to select from.

Now think about it - say you aleady have 7 degrees of "slop"
in your chain - that alone will cause it to run late - maybe
by 2 degrees (remember, the "slowness" will be only 1/2 of
your measurement less the original stock slack.)
Add that to 5 degrees late original equipment and you really
are late.
True double rollers can get that slop as low, or lower,
than 2. And they don't have the "built in" retarded like the
OEM does.
Set at "0" it's eliminating the stock 5 degrees retarded,
so now you are 7 ahead of what you had before.
You can definately feel it!
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