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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

I've got GM rear disc brakes using the TSM kit but my e-brake has never worked very well. I've just lived with it for years, too busy with other things and I don't use it very often. Now, I insist it's going to work or I'm going to scrap it. I adjusted it with the e-brake released and tightened until the lever arms on the calipers were just off the rear stops. I've thought about trying with the e-brake partially applied and adjusting until the brakes are tight and then checking for drag with the e-brake released. Anybody know of any other tricks?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-22-2002, 08:42 PM
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

I'm considering using Cadillac calipers on a Scout II rear end.
Check with R & P 4WD Parts Inc for an adapter to use Dana 44 style parking brake cable with Cadillac e-brake calipers.

R & P 4WD Parts Inc
11889 S New Era Rd Oregon City, OR 97045-9717
(503) 557-8911

I'm wondering, will the Cadillac calipers work with a vented rotor width of 1.250"?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

I don't know what kind of adapter you are referring to but everything fits up fine using the OEM Jeep cables. The problem is that when I mash down on the e-brake pedal it gets real stiff at the bottom of the travel but the brakes still aren't tight. I may need to check into the Cadillac OEM e-brake pedal. I'm not sure if,

1. I don't have enough leverage with the Jeep unit
2. I don't have enough pedal travel to give enough cable movement
3. a combination of both of the above
4. I'm just adjusting them wrong

Right at the minute, I've got the cable to the right side gone bad AGAIN because I never use the e-brake and it rusts up in the sheath. I should have a new one Monday so I'm gonna try one more time.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 06:10 PM
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

Taz, my TSM's work great on my YJ w/d44's. Lots of holding power. I don't know if the pedal is any different than a CJ. What are you adjusting? I thought they were self-adjusting when you use the e-brake. Mine worked out of the box, just had to set and release the e-brake 4 or 5 times. Do you have any slack in the cable? Also, are you using the stock caddy bracket and spring? The only snag I had while installing them was the driver side cable was too short. I just moved the jeep side of the cable a few inches closer the the axle.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

I'm adjusting at the cable splitter/equalizer, tightening the nut on the main cable from the pedal assembly. I adjusted until the caliper lever arms were just off of the rest position stop. I am using the OEM Caddy lever arms and OEM Jeep cables, mine hooked up fine. The calipers are good, I just replaced the pads on both sides and I ratcheted up the pads against the rotors using a crescent wrench on the levers.

Sometimes I've got a little hold with the e-brakes sometimes I've got almost nothing. I've driven at highway speed until I saw the smoke in the rearview mirror and realized that I had left the e-brake applied. I guess I just need to tighten the nut at the equalizer a little more but I was afraid if I went too short, the arms wouldn't fall back far enough to ratchet.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 07:47 PM
 
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

Those caddy rear calipers can drive you nuts. I've worked a full day on them before trying to get the brake pedal up or getting the e-brakes to work. The problem is that the mechanism inside the caliper gets gumed up and sticks and they don't adjust right. So when they stick either you get a low brake pedal or the ebrake won't work right. Lack of use makes it worse! The quickest easiest way to fix them is to get rebuilts and always use the ebrake!

Did you buy used calipers when you installed them or get rebuilt ones?
If they were used you may never get them to free up and I'd replace them.That little check valve in the center of the piston lets air in and along with it moisture and it so it rust up the cone and it can't rotate to adjust.

A few things to check:
1. Make sure the little nub on the brake pad is lined up with the depression in the piston.

2. Another thing that I've had work is to take the caliper off the rotor and turn the arms so the piston moves out almost all the way then turn the piston back in if you do it a few times some of them will free up.

3.Pumping the ebrake about 100 times works on some too.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!
I also have a manual that explains exactly how they work and how to rebuild them it has a parts diagram too. If you want I could try and scan it and email you a copy just let me know.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

I've learned a lot about those Caddy calipers from experience. This is the third set of pads I've had in them, they've been on 8-9 years. I first bought used ones, I couldn't get the puck screwed back in one of them. Tried taking the arm off and screwing it in that way, don't work, just ratchets. I used it as a core on a rebuilt. Next time, the other one wouldn't screw in, so it got replaced with a rebuilt, I've learned to keep them oiled a little.

This time they both screwed in fine and I was able to adjust the pads up with a crescent wrench on the e-brake lever. Yes, the little nub on the back of the pad is in the CORRECT slot on the puck (another learning experience, I thought I could use any of them when I first put them on, realized only one works). That was the reason for using the crescent on the lever, I had to hold the pad against the puck to keep the nub engaged until I got it adjusted up some. The rotors have been turned and if I don't get the puck adjusted up some, it can turn and move the slot out of alignment with the nub (another learning experience). I can hold pressure on the brake and then cycle the e-brake pedal a few times, but the crescent was there and I was there so Besides I wanted to make sure the ratchets were working and tightening the pads on the rotors. They were.

It's been this way for years, I almost never use the e-brake. I pump it up a few times to adjust the pads when I think about it, but I've never had an e-brake that would really hold. I suspected cable stretch so I've replaced them too.

This time I only got about half pad wear, they wore at an angle. The leading edge, in forward motion, was worn down until the squealer was sounding, the trailing edge was almost original thickness. I think this was from not remembering to cycle the e-brake pedal often enough.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

One question, do you have a spring on the end of the e-brake cable inside the spring that pushes the lever arm back on the caliper? I thought about cutting the spring off of the cable but I didn't think the spring for the lever arm was strong enough to return the lever arm and pull the cable.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2002, 09:36 PM
 
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

All my experiance comes from working on them when they are on Caddies. Another thing is if you have hydraulic pressure applied the cone can't turn inside the piston to adjust so make sure you don't use both pressure and the arms when you adjust them.

On the cars they don't have springs on the cables but the return springs on the calipers themselves are differant and not interchangable according to GM. The red spring is for the right and the black is for the left.

How far do the arms move now when you apply the ebrake?

I also saw some guys cheat and adjust the ebrake so the arms were off the stops but I never thought it was a good idea. You could try this and see if you get a stronger ebrake if you do get one you may not have enough throw with the Jeep pedal.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2002, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Jeep TSM rear disc brakes

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
the return springs on the calipers themselves are differant and not interchangable

[/ QUOTE ]This is a heck of a time to be finding out something like that. I can't see how that could have anything to do with my problem though.

How do YOU turn the puck back in? I've tried it lots of ways, what seems to work the best is to remove the caliper, remove the pads, remove the rotor and then bolt the caliper back to the bracket. Is there a better tool than that stupid cube thing to turn them back in? If there's not, I'm going to make one.

With a better tool to turn the pucks in and an working e-brake, I'd be happy. This is the only thing on the Jeep that doesn't work including all the side marker lights.
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