Hockey-puck lift question - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 06:32 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Hockey-puck lift question

I ran into a couple of articles on the Net about 1" hockey-puck lift. The main problem was that, allegedly, the puck is not flexible, so it will eventually break into 1000 pieces, rather then distorting itself (like regular body mounts/lifts). Does anybody have any experience with hockey-puck lift?
Also, I read that the radiator should be lowered, and the front brakeline too. Is that true, is that a problem to do? What happens to the clutch linkage, driveshaft angle, etc? Or don't they suffer that much?
And as we talk about pucks... I have been given an (good) idea about cutting two pucks in half (over the diameter), and using those four halfs as bumpstops. Is it going to work, or are they too stiff? Or too small? Diameter of the puck is 3", so the BS's should be 1.5" each. But my main concern is wil they, when hit by the axle, break in 100 pieces, or are they going to be too stiff to use as bumpstops?
Thanx!
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 07:20 AM
Moderator
 
Jim_Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 11,487
Thanks: 15
Thanked 22 Times in 17 Posts
         
Re: Hockey-puck lift question

IMHO hockey pucks are too hard for either application, even if they don't shatter.

Used as a body mount, they will make the body flex because the puck won't. Pretty soon you'll get fatigue cracks.

Used as a bump stop, they'll transfer the impact into the frame and axel, instead of giving the contact a soft stop.

Lots of people have used them as body mounts over the years, but I doubt that the long term results are good. Now, if you were to use the puck just as a spacer, with a regular rubber body mount on top of it, that should be OK. Be sure to put the puck against the frame, not against the body.
Jim_Lou is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 07:33 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Hockey-puck lift question

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
if you were to use the puck just as a spacer

[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, I am. I'm not planning to "loose" any existing parts... Just to add that "puck-spacer" on the existing rubber mounts. So, I should put the puck-spacer on the bottom (the rail mount), then the rubber on top of it, and then the body?
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 07:41 AM
Moderator
 
Jim_Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 11,487
Thanks: 15
Thanked 22 Times in 17 Posts
         
Re: Hockey-puck lift question

That's the way I'd do it - put the puck between the frame and a stock rubber mount. I don't see how it could cause any harm there, as long as it doesn't break.

Jim_Lou is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 07:49 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Hockey-puck lift question

I see...
And do you know anything about those other things (brakelines, clutch linkage, driveshaft, radiator)?
post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 08:02 AM
Moderator
 
Jim_Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 11,487
Thanks: 15
Thanked 22 Times in 17 Posts
         
Re: Hockey-puck lift question

Well, let's see. The brakelines run from the master cylinder, which is mounted on the body, to the proportioning valve, which is mounted on the frame. When the body and frame move farther apart, those lines will have to be longer. Typically, they have two or three loops for stress and vibration isolation, so you might be able to stretch them. I don't know if that is safe or not.

If you don't have hydraulic clutch linkage, you have a bellcrank mounted between the frame rail and the bellhousing. It will be OK, but the pushrod from the pedal to the bellcrank will need to be lengthened.

The driveshafts won't be affected as both the transfer case and axels are mounted to the frame. They don't move even if you take the body off.

If you have a shroud around the radiator, when the body moves up, the fan is likely to hit the bottom of the shroud. Dropping the radiator and its shroud by the amount of the lift will probably be a good idea. I don't think that should be difficult - just drill a new set of holes in the body where the radiator bolts up.

You might also have to get longer hoses from the gas cap to the tank.

If you only lift the body an inch, I think everything else will reach.

Jim_Lou is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome