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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-05-2002, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Door latch adjustment on CJ7 w/ Hardtop

Now that winter is here in Colorado I put my hardtop back on my '84 CJ7. But I noticed now that when I slam the doors shut they do not mate flush with the body. They are off (stick out beyond body) by about 3/8 of an inch or so. This happens on both sides. I did replace the weather stripping so I assume it is thicker than the old stuff. I can tell you that nothing major is bent or terribly off (i.e. windshield, frame, hinges, etc.). I have aligned the hinges on the hard doors so that they are set equa-distant from the edges.

Is there a way to move the latchs on the body side so they hold the door closer to the body? If I lean against the door it will line up. What adjustments can I make and how do I do them.

The whistling noise at 80mph is making me deaf in my left ear.

All help greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-05-2002, 08:59 AM
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Re: Door latch adjustment on CJ7 w/ Hardtop

Sure there is....if you keep slamming the door you'll be cracking the heck outta the sill. Fix it NOW, it's not hard.

Flush and clean the lock mechanics inside the door.

Then when that's done you can draw the doors in by simply adjusting the door post.

1. Compare the right and left door closing. Do both doors close into the tub so that the outside doorskin is flush with the tub. IF so, good. If not.. that's the starting point.

3. Does the door hang correctly on the hinges. The hinges can, and do move. Looking at the door closed tight agains the tub, does the front edge follow the line of the tub without touching, and is there equadistance between the tub on the leading and rear edges of the door? There should be. Now look at the bottom of the doorskin, is the gap equadistance beteen the doorskin and the tub? If not it should be.

Corrrect these problems before modification to the striker position.

Perform the Door Alingment Procedures

4.. Assuming the doorskin is flush now with the tub, then the only recorse is to move the striker. Compare the two stirkers, right and left sides. Are both stirkes at the same place on the tub verticlly and horizontally?

5. You can move OEM strikers easily:
a. Heat the stiker with a propane torch. This loosens the thread lock.
b. Using a small hammer, move the stirker to the desired location.
c. Let the stirker cool, an the threadlock will agian be enabled.
e. If you need to move the striker in or out in relationship to the tub door edge you can do so by heating and using a torex socket to spin the bolt adjuster.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-05-2002, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Door latch adjustment on CJ7 w/ Hardtop

Leve,

Thanks for the reply.

My sills did already crack and I have repaired with a MIG weld. The doorskin is not flush with the body. This is what I need to fix. The doors hang correctly within the openings but are not drawn tight to the body. Locks/latches have been thoroughly cleaned and oiled.

You mentioned drawing the doors in by adjusting the door post. How exactly does this work. I believe everthing will fit nicely if only the doors where held closer to the body openings. Does this make sense?

Sorry if this sounds dumb.



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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-05-2002, 09:36 AM
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Re: Door latch adjustment on CJ7 w/ Hardtop

The post is made up of the following:

1. A BIG torex bolt.
2 A big nut on the end of the bolt.
3. A spring plate between the bolt and the striker assembly.
5. A collar around the bolt (Machined or free.. .I can't remember..).

The bolt is threadlocked into place. If the trreadlock is removed then the bolt can be loosened and moved latterly and vertically. The trick is removing the thread lock. That's where the torch figures in.

If you heat the post the threadlock melts and the post can be moved. Granted, ya gotta use that fine adjusting tool called a hammer, but it can be moved. Once the post cools, the threadlock agian freezes the post in place.

I usuall take a scredriver and use it to beat on with a hammer at the base of the post where it enters the striker assembly.

Then int's just knowing what direction and how far to move the post.

One other thought. Look at the base of the door pillar. It's got to be intact. If not then the side of the tub can be leaning in or out and often it's not notices. The hard top can conform to this placement and the door won't shut.

If that's the case... a new pillar is needed or you need to re-stiffen the piller with an "L" piece of metal and some welding.
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