1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2002, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

Ok, I have a 1/2 Ton CV Driveshaft right now with 1310 u-joints throughout..

I`m upgrading to a 14bolt in the rear and am wondering if I should upgrade to a 1 Ton Shaft with 1350 U-Joints..

I`m running the stock transfer case (np231) if I upgrade to 1350 I will have to get the AA or JB SYE Kit since I just have the Currie one which reuses the stock shaft..


I`ll be running 38.5" TSL SX tires..

What's everyones opinions? Will I be spitting out U-Joints all day with 1310 ???

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2002, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

Add: I have Currie SYE and Currie 1/2 Ton CV rear Driveshaft setup right now... my question really is should I upgrade to the AA SYE and 1 Ton Shaft?

Or should I wait until I start busting u-joints every trip to upgrade?

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2002, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

BTT
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

!!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 11:03 AM
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

What kind of power are you going to be putting through this shaft? 38's are huge tires, and they are going to put a lot of stress on every part of your drive line. If you don't want to worry about the drive shaft then change them out. But with the smaller joints you have a fuse as they say. Chances are that if somthing breaks it is going to be an inexpencive joint and not something more costly. If I were you I would get a few extra joints and bring them with you the first couple times out. If you use them all up in a month, then go and spend the money for a new shaft and the AA. But if they hold, then save your money.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

Thanks!!!!

That's what I`m leaning towards [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

I`ll be using the stock YJ 6cyl / Tranny / Transfercase

Hopefuly it holds out long enough so I can save up for the 4:1 reduction when I stick in the AA SYE!! [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 05:22 PM
 
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

I would say that i'd rather be eating up 1310 joints and even drive shafts rather than killing something in your t-case. That's my oppinon and i've never really seen some one blow up their t-case but then i don't usually wheel with the "big boys".

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 11:23 PM
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

Stick with the 1310's. This is for 2 reasons.

1) You want a link that will fail before that aluminum T-case you have, or the chain within it.

2) The 1310's have more usable angularity than the 1350's. While the 1350's have more beef to them, they typically cannot be run at as much of an angle due to the yoke size. If you are curious about mating the 1350 of the 14B to the 1310 of the driveshaft, Spicer makes a 1310/1350 conversion joint. I am running one on the back of the Scrambler from the NP205 to the Grand Waggie driveshaft. They cost about $23.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

Sweet thanks for that help!
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2002, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1310 or 1350 U-Joints in my rear Driveshaft

With the 14bolt & 38x14.5 tires, and 1310s, and a traction bar...

Going up rocks if im jumping around do I have good chance to bust them u-joints...?

(With detroit and without??)
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