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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

Ok well maybe not 8 stage.. but I've been putting of wiring about 6 or 7 things in my Jeep. So I've decided now is a good time to do it all and I just had a couple of questions before I go buying supplies.

1) Track lighting is turned down so it can use 12V bulbs. I have a ton of realy old ugly track lights at home in the basement, and I was wondering if I could just rip the transformer of them and wire them up as misc lights for under the hood, rock lights, interior lights and such.
Anyone done this? anyone got any tips?

2) My hardtop plug doesn't match the one in my Jeep.. so since I got my hardtop I've been cutting back the wires and taping them together. obviously not the perfect situation. Whats the best type of plug to use for this kind of thing? Can I go and buy a 3 prong male and female and wire them up to provide a quick disconnect?

3) My drivers side door ajar switch (in the doorframe) is not as springy as it once was, and therefore doesn't work properly.. (ok.. doesn't work at all).. can replacements be found at NAPA? anyone got a part number or is taking in my old one the best bet?

4) I want to wire all my fog/rock lights through the ignition fuse block.. so I can't drain my battery when the ignition is turned off. How do I do this.. anyone mind giving a breif tutorial to a simpleton like me?

5) for 12V lamps.. (fog and tracklight kind) what kind of switch should I be looking for. I'd ask the guys at radioshack but it would take me 45 min to explain myslef whereas you guys actually know whats going on.

6) A kill switch for my coil.. I was suggested this by a friend.. the theif can sit there and crank over my engine for 45 min or until the battery runs dry and it will never start.. what amp/type switch should I have? is this a good way to stop a theif.. I'd hide it ofcourse and not have it on the dash with a big "COIL CUTOFF" on it.

7) Fog Lamps- My dad got me some for my birthday. I know he didn't get all cheap and got me a very decent pair.. but they're square, with plastic frames.. and little steel brackets.. obvioulsly not as good as a rubber coated round lamp.. I'm pretty sure I want to go and trade them in.. anyone got any advice?

8) Ok, not really electrical.. but this makes 8 points. For my birthday my sister got me a new key cylinder. because mines broke and the car starts without a Key.
So.. is this a hard replacement? Can I do it in the parking lot here at school? I've got a haynes manual, anyone got any tips or hints.. because we all know how .. "Ease off the bolt." really means "Heave on the damn thing for 45 min with a breaker bar until it strips, then get out the welder and cutting torch and chop out that portion of the frame to get access to the back of the bold."

THNX in advance for any and all help.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 01:51 PM
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

1) If the bulbs are 12v DC then you can use them, but you don't need that transformer. That transformer is most likely to convert 120v AC current into 12v. Just make sure the bulbs are DC, not AC.

2) Sounds like you already know what you need to do, just go get a plug and hook it up.

3) Not sure what they are like on a YJ, but you can make about any normally closed momentary button work.

4) You're best bet is to use a relay. Find a wire under the dash that only gets power when the key is on, such as the radio. Use this to operate the relay. Then wire all of the lights through the relay. This way it's not drawing all of the power off the small wire used to turn the radio on, just closing the relay with it.

5) Any switch rated at 12v or above and enough amperage will work. That's just a matter of personal preference for looks and operating style.

6) Don't know for sure how many amps it would need to be, but that's about the main concern.

7) No expensive lighting here, so can't help on that one.

8) Did it once on my lebaron, not too hard on it, but a jeep isn't a lebaron.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 01:55 PM
 
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

1) can't hurt to try now, can it
2) I'd get a trailer wiring kit. Cheap, 4 connector weatherproof plug.
3) Easy to find replacements, look in the car alarm section. 2 types, normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC), make sure you get the right one.
4) Buy an auxillary fuse box. Power the box from a relay off the Radio connection on the main box (relay because the ignition switch is already overloaded).
5) Again, power off a relay, then you can use any old switch you find at Radio Shack.
6) Pretty much any switch will do. It's just to provide a ground. Someone came up with a nifty way to go without a switch, using a magnet to swipe over a concealed switch: web page
7) Mount them under the front bumper then smash them on some rocks, buy better ones. Spare dad's feelings [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
8) Never done it but I know it's been discussed here before. Search is your friend [img]images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
9) Damn you ask a lot of questions.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 03:06 PM
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

Hmm, actually you made me think about something else 80sCJ7. On #3 it might not be either. I was thinking a NC so when the door shut it opened the circuit. But, on my old Plymouth Fury III the door switch used one wire, a ground. When the door opened and the switch pushed out, it contacted against the body to get a ground and turn the light on. So I guess you better pull that thing out and see what kind it is Inferno.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

hum bug..

thats the only way to get the right thing at NAPA anyways right?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 10:00 PM
 
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

1-those bulbs will be ac, dc is needed. Those ac bulbs should light but will burn out pretty quick.
2-trailer plug good idea or a small "twist to lock" connector can be had too.
3-seen them new don't know where, all else fails-junkyard for free probably.
4-Put the lights through a relay to save the switch life. Power comes off main battery line, relay coil power through switch and auxillary circuit on when switch is on.
5-If through relay any normally open toggle switch. If through switch only-usually 1/2 HP rated switch. Buy the heavy duty electrical-you will be probably pulling about 10 amps (usually 55 watts x 2=110 watts/12 volts is approx 10 amps).
6-I like it, do it on the primary side of the coil. Again switch above in #5 should be ok. You will increase the resistance of the feed lines thus lowering your coil output. Be careful. Buy good wire and a good switch.
7-I like KC's. 5 year warranty on bulbs and everything-hard to beat.
8-do not know. I like it that way. Then when I am too drunk to find my keys, I can still drive!! [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 10:27 PM
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

OK - from my knowledge and recollections:

1) Certainly - I've had an old track type spotlight rigged to a 12v lighter plug for years in my Blazer, it's the world's cheapest roadside trouble light[img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

2) Any trailer plug set will work, or for really spiffy, you can get a GM weatherpak connector set at any auto parts store.

3) Just take your old one in - there's only 4 or 5 "standard" sizes for pin switches, and any parts house will have them.

4) The easiest way to do it is to use relays, and use a switched terminal (get a test light and experiment - there's several) to feed the switch legs of the relays.

5) Use what you like - as long as they're through relays and not hardwired, any switch is fine.

6) Great idea - I've got a keyed switch (old Cat ignition switch) for mine. A little extra security, but not necessary. You could actually use a 59 cent 110v switch for this purpose with no ill effect.

7) I had a set like that with my OEM bumper - I took the mighty Sawzall and cut a pair of holes in the front of the bumper, then mounted them inside the channel. They now live with whoever it was that stole my %$#@ing bumper [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

8) Easy as pie - You'll need the following:
Steering wheel puller
GM lockplate remover
T-15 Torx screwdriver
About 1˝ or 2 hours

Here's pictures of my Blazer's torn down all the way (Same GM column as a YJ uses) http://community.webshots.com/album/17272977QOQEcrhPHn - You won't be going nearly this far, but up till about "photo 4" here:



I can EMail you step-by-step instructions for getting into the column if you like, just let me know.
post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2002, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

Thanks for all the info everyone..

as it happens I left the track lights at home.. (6 hours away.) and will have to pick them up around Rememberance day. [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
The key cylinder shouldn't be too hard as long as I can find a place where I can rent/borrow those specialty tools.

The door switch can't be found so I'm going to get cheap and instead of going to the Chrysler place.. which will no doubt charge me $20 for it.. I'll stick a hair elastic on it.

I can't find any 4 prong connectors.. they want $4 an end.. (male and female) then I'd have to instert my own metal contacts.. no thanks.. I'll go get a extention plug replacement for $2 from homedepot.

fog lamps got left at home too [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

switch on the coil is dooable.

so..
door switch will be done soon.
steering column can be done soon.
connector can be done soon.
kill switch can be done.

once again I find myself not actually adding anything to my jeep, but instead just fixing those little annying things that never got fixed before.

[img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

oh well.. thnx for all the help.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-16-2002, 12:50 PM
 
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

I've had to pull my steering wheel to change the lock cylinder and also a couple of times to tighten the screws on the tilt mechanism (now locktighted).

A cheap $4.00 made in china steering wheel puller is good enough for the job. There is a spring you need to compress and remove an external circlip. YOu can use a piece of 3" channel iron cut 3" long with a 1/2" hole drilled in the centre. The nut that holds the steering wheel on will press down the channel iron ends agains the lockplate so you can pick out the circlip that retains it. The wiring harness unplugs near the base of the column, so that you can pull the turn signal mechanism up and out of hte way. Once it's stripped down,the cylinder is removed by pressing in a pin or tap that faces the drivers seat. New cylinder just drops and clicks into place. Check operation of it before putting the rest of the parts back in place. Could be problems with a weak spring somewhere or one that isn't in place on the little lever that unlocks the wheel.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-16-2002, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Test your knowledge. 8 Stage Wiring Proposal..

Just called Chrysler..

They want $16.39 for the door switch..

Guess I'll be pulling it appart and fixing it tonight.
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