OME worth the $$$ ? - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-06-1999, 09:37 PM
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OME worth the $$$ ?

Hey Guys,
Just wondering if the OME suspension sys. is worth the BIG $$$ they are getting for it. I have seen some "tests" on it in various mags and they all say it is great. I only need small lift to fit 31's a little better on my 89 YJ. I am looking for a better ride, on and off the road and better performance and flex off road. I will prob. just bite the bullet and get it, so is there anything I should look for in a "kit" deal. Who has the best price on it and is good to deal with .....in case of probs with the install? I live pretty close to OK 4wd so I may just drive over and get it from them....if they have a close price to the others. I think I will need new U-bolts.....anything else? Will I have to get an alignment after the install? Any pointers or any other lifts I should consider???
Thanks for your help Gang.....Herbie

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-06-1999, 10:29 PM
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Re: OME worth the $$$ ?

I installed an OME lift on my 93 YJ last September. It is definitely worth it. It is a major improvement in the ride on paved roads, and it performs extremely well offroad. It has amazing flex and articulation. My friends with CJ's and YJ's say that it rides like a cadillac (that's an exaggeration, though, but that's what they say). I can pretty much keep up with the 4" lift guys, and I've decided to forget about lockers for a while, becasue the flex of the OME lift (with quick dicconnects) keeps the wheels on the ground so well (although it doesn't work miracles).

I wouldn't say that its ride is as sophisticated as a TJ, but it definitely rides noticeably better than any other YJ lift I've experienced.

I experienced some probelms, though, that you should be aware of. These problems apply to any lift, not just OME.

I experienced rear driveline vibration. Installing the OME transfer case drop kit (which are large round pucks, not cheap little spacers) helped. Removing the drop kit and installing a slip yoke eliminator and CV rear drive shaft helped a little more. Having the rear axle spring perches removed and rewelded for optimum driveline angles helped more. (Off shelf shims weren't enough.) Having the drive shaft balanced finally eliminated all my vibration; the shop that made it hadn't balanced it for first time!

You may not have vibration. Most people who install 2" lifts, including OME ones, don't. I was just lucky.

I'm also running 31" tires, and the OME springs flex enough that sometimes, at full articulation/stuff, a front tire hits the fender and bends it slightly. I have installed 1" bump stop extension in front, and that has helped for all but the most rare circumstances.

I bought my kit from JKS Manufacturing, the same company that makes the quick dicsonnects. They gave me an attractive price on the OME kit (springs, shocks, transfer case drop kit), quick disconnects, and front telescoping track bar. You'll need at least quick disconnects, in addttion to the OME kit, to take full advantage of the springs' flex. When I bought mine, they had just started carrying the OME line. Now, I understand that they fully understand the performance of OME and have a package deal that contains accessories such as the bump stop extensions and longer brake lines.

Keith




post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-07-1999, 10:37 AM
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Re: OME worth the $$$ ?

Herbie,

Good chatting with you again. Well, Keith pretty much summed it up so I
won't go into much detail.

I installed the OME on my 90YJ several months ago. I also slid a set of
31" BFG Mud Terrains under it. I installed the whole OME kit. Springs,
bushings, shocks, TC drop, new U-bolts, etc.

The ride is MUCH better than stock. On the road it is just great. But
off road is even better. I scrapped both the front sway bar and the rear
track bar. (This is not my daily driver.) On the trail, the front
springs will flex so much that it will push the M/T's up into the
fenders and they will rub. I will need a body lift to stop it. Also
the front springs dropped so much I had to add longer brake lines to
prevent them from limiting the drop.

In the rear, I added the t-case pucks but that didn't stop the vibration.
I ended up going to a SYE kit and a CV driveshaft to eliminate the
vibrations. This also let me remove the t-case lowering pucks. And, yes,
you have to have the spring perches rewelded to use the CV-joint
driveshaft. Now, the limiting factor in the rear are the shocks that
came with the OME kit. They do not have enough down stroke. I hope
to find some shocks with more travel for the rear. If I do, I will give
some serious consideration to the Revolver shackles for the rear.

Was it worth it? A definite YES. I can keep up the 4" boys without
a problem. Don't even think about it without the SYE and driveshaft kit.
And spring for longer brake lines for the front. And to really use the
flex with 31s, you will need a 1 or 2 inch body lift.

The best thing about the OME lift however is the smooth ride home after
a hard day on the trail. My back no longer complains all the way home.

Hope this helps.

Ron R. - 90 YJ w/OME
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-07-1999, 09:24 PM
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Re: OME worth the $$$ ?

Thanks Keith and Ron......again,
I am wordering a little about the rear spring perch idea. Does the rear perch have to be welded just a little closer to the frame because it hangs down to much? That would help with pinion angle, but wouldnt you lose some lift? I thought the adjustable track bar was for the rear? The SYE kit is around $300-$400 from what I can figure. What kit did you guys go with? I thought I noticed some degree shims on the OME springs. With the drop kit and the degree shims, its still required to go with a SYE kit? What shackles did yu guys go with? Are stock shackles to feable for wheeling? I may just cut down my extended "welded H" shackles to stock lenghth and reuse them. So much to think of.....but hey its only money right ;-)
Thanks for your help guys.......Herbie

post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-07-1999, 10:13 PM
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Re: OME worth the $$$ ?

You might not have to have the spring perches relocated. In my case, for some reason, an offshelf 6- or 8-degree shim was not enough to rotate the rear axle upward to bring the pinion in line with the rear CV driveshaft. Most people who install the SYE & CV rear drive shaft do not have to go to such extremes. My theory is that, due to manufacturing tolerances, my spring perches were located such that the pinion was rotated down more than normal to begin with, so it needed greater correction when modifying the driveline.
The perch is located in the same position left to right, but in a different position front to back around the axis of the axle. Hope this makes sense. No lift is lost, because the axle remains in the same location relative to the springs and chassis. It just points the pinion up a little higher.
The JKS adjustable track bar is for the front. Maybe someone else makes one for the rear. You've probably read an article on this setup in one of the 4x4 magazines awhile back where it was mistakently installed on the rear of a YJ. In a subsequent issue, the same magazine printed a followup article correcting this issue. Locating the track bar in the front, like it's supposed to be, actually improved articulation a little, according to the followup article. Companies other than JKS may make an adjustable rear track bar, but I hear that they contact the frame at some attitudes, but don't quote me.
The Currie SYE kit is around $300-400, and the rear CV drive shaft is extra. I paid about $700 to have the Currie SYE and rear CV drive shaft installed on my YJ.
JB Enterprises makes a SYE kit that is supposed to be stronger, as does Advance Adapters. They are more expensive by about $200-300, though. I've had no problem with my Currie one, though.
I think soneone (Rubicon Express) makes a SYE that's even less expensive, but you have to modify your transfer case output shaft yourself, and I'm not skilled enough to undertake this risky modification myself, and I don't trust any of the 4x4 shop here on Phoenix to do it. So I went for the Currie kit.
If you do the SYE, you will no longer need the transfer case drop kit, which is an advantage, because you get back about 5/8" clearance that you lost by dropping the transfer case in the first place. If you install the SYE and achieve the optimum rear pinion angle by either shimming or modifying the spring perches, there's no reason to use the transfer case drop kit. I personally believe that dropping the transfer case is a kluge which stresses the motor and transmission mounts and aggravates the front driveline U-jount angles. But it's a cheap alternative to the SYE, if it works.
The degree shims, which come with the OME rear springs may or may not be needed, based on your individual YJ's peculiarities. OME, like other lift manufacturers who provide shims (not all do), provide the shims of a degree that seemed to them to work for most YJ's.
By using the drop kit and degrees shims provided by OME, you may have no vibration, and it may work fine. But if it dosn't, you'll have to tolerate the vibration or spend more money.
I still have the stock shackles, with OME bushings. The stock shackles are fine, but I'm not a hard-core rock crawler. Other shackles may be of a different length than stock, which will affect the steering geometry and hard handling to a degree. I've been tempted to get some greasable stock length shackles, but it's not a priority right now.



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