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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

Okay guys I have done the seach with little luck. I will start installing the Fiber tub next Wknd. I would like as much info as possible PLEASE. I have a 4WD tub w/o Tailgate. and the video. Mucho info on the video but it is about twenty years old, but I am in need of the Little things that pop up info.
Like the Brake pedal rod I have read about, and grounding,and the seatbelts, I have purchased the Fiberglass grounding kit. I am mecahnically and electrically inclined but I have never done something like this before. Please any info would be great
Thank You...
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 03:12 PM
 
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPETISE!!!

Mostly take your time and measure everything at least 3 or 4 times before you start drilling or cutting. Also, try to have a shop vac around to suck up all the F/G dust you make ASAP. That stuff itches like crazy!
You might want to consider swapping to a hydraulic clutch setup instead of the mechanical one at this time. It works better and is easier to mount with the FG tub.
I would also suggest you go to the Jeep dealer and buy the YJ style windshield washer nozzles and use them instead of the CJ style one. The nozzles aren't too expensive from Jeep, and they work a heck of a lot better than the CJ's EVER did.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPETISE!!!

Your the guy I have been wanting to hear from you are one of the people that convinced me to go Fiberglass.
How did you hook up your seatbelts and what about moving 2 frame mounts?. A friend at work is a professional welder and he has done some work on jeeps before but not a fiberglass install. please any info you can give me would be very helpful.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 03:46 PM
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

The hyd brake system sounds like it is a good idea! If you don't go this route, and need to extend your brake pushrod, you can either cut/weld it yourself or get the adjustable rod from Tri County Gear (thats what I did).

I agree, they need to update their video. It looks like it was made in about 1975. I'm not sure what you are talking about with "Moving body mounts". If you purchased the "Fiberglass body instalation kit" it has a pair of plates that bolt to the #2-#3 frame mounts, and you drill hols in these plates to actualy mount the tub to.

For the seatbelts, I just mounted the retractor part to the bottom plate on my sport bar with a large (5" dia. X 3/16" thick)
washer to back it up under the tub. The latch end was bolted through the rear/inboard seat bolt with the same backing washer. A full cage is on the list and the belts/seats will be mounted to that to make it a stronger setup.

I used my original wiring harness and just ran dedicated grounds to all of the "systems" (ie: grille, dash, motor, frame, taillights, etc.).

If you are mechanicly inclined, you will do well. Just take your time and as Bob said, measure EVERYTHING a few times before cutting.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

Thanks Guys I really appreciate it.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 08:35 PM
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

I really can't think of much to tell you in general, it's pretty straight forward.

You'll need a bunch of hole saws.

I wound up cutting the seam lip off of the front of the vent air box to get the grille to fit in the same place on the cowl.

I did the AJ's and used their instructions which were to use the plate around the steering wheel for a pattern to cut holes. There was one hole in the plate that I shouldn't have cut a hole in the firewall to match.

The speedometer cable grommet, wouldn't fit the thicker 'glass firewall so I cut the hole oversize and inserted a plastic electrical box hole plug which I had cut a hole in to accept the grommet.

I used bunch of big fender washers to shim the poly body mounts. I should have used the softer mount rubber that comes in a kit. I've got some stress lines in the gelcoat because of this. This board wasn't around to advise me back then.

For the dash bolts, I recently installed t-nuts epoxied into the glass with one edge bent so it can't turn. They're an insert nut that is made for threading bolts into wood. I had to flatten the barbs.

I used all stainless steel fasteners with the largest thickest washers I could find where anything mounted through the body.

I did the same thing mounting the retractable portion of the seat belts to the rollbar feet. There was a metal plate sandwiched in the glass for the other halves.

If you want to thread a sheetmetal screw into the body, drill a hole oversized and either epoxy in a plastic insert or just build up some epoxy inside the hole. If you just thread into a hole drilled in the body, it won't hold.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 09:42 PM
 
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

I also sugest the hydraulic clutch linkage. Also make sure you use large fender washers with your body mounts. If you use small washer or none at all they will eventualy pull through the fiberglass. Make sure everything is grounded. It is easy to take grounding for granted in a metal body. Everything has to have a ground wire running to it.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 01:05 AM
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

You will not be sorry to have chosen the fiberglass body, I am very happy with mine (also from 4wd).

I have these suggestions:

1) Save the old body until the very end (even if you have cut it up to get it off), you will need it for templates everywhere. I didn't and I was sorry.

2) Get a helper when trimming (die grinder or dremmel tool with a sanding drum both work well), to hold a shop vac right where you are drilling/cutting/sanding. Your garage and lungs will thank you.

3) Make sure you keep and LABEL all nuts and bolts as you take them off, this will help later also. Buy a box of zip lock bags (it's worth the $5-6) for this - easy to write on and the bolts stay in the bag

4) Go to your local hardware store, and look through the hardware. You should find steel(best) or aluminum (still ok) "nut-serts". I used these to attach all my softop hardware as well as the door latches and some other places. Look in the hood or fender attachment points on your 4wd body, these are the same thing as I'm talking about. Great for blind holes, exp. in glass.

5) Fit the whole body (do all trimming, drilling, cutting, etc) before you paint. I know you will have to "assemble" your Jeep twice, but the saves scratches, and painted hole openings are worth it.

I've attached a pic of my project finished. Feel free to email me if you've got more questions.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 07:48 AM
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

I've put 2 7's and 1 cj5 together. Another suggestion is to paint the interior before you get too far. The bodies also don't seem to fit square on the frame. They all were a little out of alignment when you compare it to the rear crossmember. When I lined the body up I mounted the front fenders and grill on temp. to help line everything up. Another tip may be to use SS sheet metal screws to attach the dash. I've no regrets with their bodies.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 12:25 PM
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Re: CJ7 Fibertub install need your EXPERTISE!!!

We made a 90deg bracket for the seatbelt. Double nut your bolt for your battery tray, so you can remove the tray in the future without having to take out the heater box assembly.

A rotozip cuts fiberglass well.

We bought the "adjustable brake rod" from Tri-county gear ($40)

-Mel
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