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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2002, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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H8: OBA question...

Hey Jeff,

As my memory serves me (sometimes) your system is pretty close to where I wanna end up, if you don't mind, I got a couple of questions for you sir:

You're running one of those smaller switches TR had for the pressure/clutch switch on your OBA setup, right?

Do you have that running through a relay, or is the switch beefy enough to handle the load directly?

Also, did you buy aftermarket fittings for the top of your York, or are you using stock?

It looks like you're running an Earl's setup from the output to the manifold does that handle the heat OK?

Any other recommendations you may think up would be appreciated.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 03:00 AM
 
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Re: H8: OBA question...

Herb,
I use on of TR's pressure switches (of at 150psi on at 130 psi,..or something like that).
I run it to a relay, that energizes the compressor clutch, The switch has been very reliable, but Arron suggested running it to the control leg of a relay, and I took his advice, it has performed flawlessly.

The fittings on top are stock AC connectors that I bought from Kenworth (normaly they would be fitted by an AC specialist with crimp connectors to go to the AC hoses). I took mine to a place called "House of Hose" (any industrial hose place will do), and had them braze on some standard NPT 3/4" male threads, (it was very affordable,..about $18 for both fittings. Then I bought some earls stainless adapter from NPT to AN fittings and some AN 10 stainless line. If I was to do it again I would just have them flair the ends for me with AN fittings, (eliminate one more adapter fitting). The input air side I just ran to some standard plumbing fittings to adapt up to a 1 1/2" NPT bushing and bought a clamp on K&N valve cover type filter.
The stainless line on the output side can handle any pressure or heat that the york can throw at it,..but the cheap oil seperater filters that you buy from Home Depot will melt(under continuos high volume like running air tools) at the plastic housing if it is as close as most of my pictures show. I ended up moving to just befor the main distibution manifold at the fender well(about 2 feet plus from the compressor), no melting problems since Ive moved it.
I would recommend running your power to the compressor switch from a "Engine Run source". If you forget to shut off the compressor switch with the engine off, and it drains down below the pressure switch "ON" pressure,the clutch will drain down an Optima battery overnight. And since you cant run the compressor witout the engine on anyway, it doesnt make sense to run it to a direct power source.
Other than that, it is a very straight forward simple OBA system, with no wierd quirks or shortcommings.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 04:52 AM
 
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Re: H8: OBA question...

Here are a couple of pics.
The filter/oil seperator is still in the melt down location in these picas.
I have since moved it to the driver side fender, closer to the main air manifold(painted blue on the driver side fender)



I hope this helps.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: H8: OBA question...

Thanks H8... That answers some questions for me. My manifold has the flange-mount fittings on it. May see if I can just have them re-tap that to NPT.

BTW, is that a HORN under your hood, or are you just happy to see somebody? [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 08:34 PM
 
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Re: H8: OBA question...

Hey Jeff is that the ford clutch master cylinder? If so could you please post a picture of how you hooked it to the pedal! And also do you have full clutch pedal throw.. Mine is under the diaphram and I dont have crap for clutch throw. Thank You in advance,
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