Plans for D30 manual axle shift
I had replied to an old post with the below, but thought I would just start a new post.
I'm restarting a pretty old thread here, but I believe it is still topic of interest. I did not see the January 01 issue of JP with the manual shift fix, I'll have to dig up that issue. I did however, find a write up from Andy Fletcher who made his own manual shifter. I am in the process of building a shifter using his plan as a base to start from. It's kind of hard to understand so I will attempt to clearly describe. Here is a link to his page to allow him credit, and for diagram's. <a target="_blank" href=http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/>http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/</a>
Materials: A cable with some type of handle to operate it. (I am trying to find a bicycle brake cable rather than a choke cable because I believe a choke cable will allow the axle to be contaminated with water and such. I'm just not sure if it needs to be a solid core cable.) If a solid core cable is not used a spring will need to be installed in the shift housing to return the shift fork to the opposite position after being pulled. One 1/2" by 1 1/2" bolt, two small set screws (to be installed in the afore mentioned bolt). One 1" reduced to 1/2" by 2" long rubber reducer hose with a 1/2" plug (hose measered by inside diameter). Two hose clamps to attach the above mentioned hose.
Tools: Common hand tools, die grinder or dremel, drill press, tap and die's.
(drilling and threading could be done by a machine shop)
1. Remove the shift motor, some gear oil should leak from axle.
2. Use a dremel or tool of the like to cut the plastic cover off of the shift motor, discard the plastic cover.
3. There are two halves of the (aproximate 6" diameter) piston, cut the seal around the outside of the first piston. Discard the piston.
4. Using the dremel grind off the end of the rod that comes through the remaining side of the piston so that piston can be removed. Discard this piston also.
5. Look inside the main housing for the snap ring that holds the shaft nearest the piston's that were just removed. Remove that slip ring, hopefully it is easier on other shift motors, mine broke and will be replaced with safety wire if I can't find a replacement.
6. Put the main housing in a vice and use a hammer to lightly tap the bell housing type piece that was holding the pistons that are now removed. Tap this bell housing piece until it is removed.
7. With a dremel separate the bell housing from the cylinder shaped piece that was being held into the main housing by the snap ring.
8. That cylinder piece has an o ring on it that can be removed to ease the motion of the entire shifter. Since I haven't finished my shifter yet, I don't know if this step is neccessary, if not, it may be better to leave the o ring to better seal the housing.
9. Replace the cylinder into the main housing and replace the snap ring.
10. Using a 1" inside diameter rubber fitting/hose, clamp over the cylinder and install some type of plug into the end of the rubber fitting/hose to block off this side of the shift motor from the environment. In the originator's plan he recommends the use of a 1" to 1/2" rubber hose type adaptor from a dishwasher drain and a 1/2" copper end cap to plug the end, all held together with hose clamps. While this should serve the purpose it seems to me that there should be a better way.
*This next step is to hollow out a bolt to hold a manual choke cable or something of the like. I'm trying to find a bicycle brake cable that will resist the elements. The bolt will be tapped into the opposite side of the main housing that was jut plugged. Allowing the cable to enter the housing and connect to the shift fork, while the bolt will be tapped and set screws will hold the outer casing of the cable into the bolt. The measurements reguarding the holes drilled into this bolt will depend on the type of cable being used.
11. Now take a 1/2" diameter by 1 1/2" long bolt drilled through the center from end to end (for a cable to fit through) and drill a couple sizes bigger hole on the head end of the bolt about 3/4" into the bolt (for the cable housing). Drill two holes on either side of the bolt that will meet in the center (actually one hole all the way through) to allow set screws to hold the cable housing. Tap these holes for the set screws.
* This next step will be a drilled and tapped hole in the housing to allow the cable to go in and attach to the shift fork. Keep this idea in mind when locating the hole.
12. Drill a hole in the opposite side of the housing to where the plug is. Tap the hole to fit the 1/2" bolt.
* This next step is another area I believe could use some refining, the attachment of the cable to the fork.
13. Drill two small holes through the shift fork to later allow the cable to go in one hole and back through the other and then wrap and tie to itself to secure the cable to the fork, but don't install the cable into the fork yet.
14. Mount the cable control handle in the cable and run the cable to the shifter housing.
15. Install the cable and cable housing into the 1/2" bolt using the set screws.
16. Install the bolt into the housing. Measure and test the cable for proper length trim if necessary. Secure the cable to the shift fork.
15. Shoot some sealant into the end of the bolt around the cable housing.
Thankyou to the originator of this idea, Any Fletcher.
I will get back with news when I finish my shifter, currently I looking for a good cable to use and waition for a machine shop to open, I busted off my drill bit trying to use a regular drill.
"Living with a conscience is like driving with the brakes on"