Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones?? - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

I busted a u-joint on my D44 this weekend. What should I install as a replacement? I am going to do both sides. I found an old post that mentioned 5-760x joints. I also thought I remembered a recent post regarding a new number. Does anyone know a number I can use at the local parts store that will get me the upgrade for the 297x joints.

Thanks,
Tom
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 04:08 PM
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

Come on.. someone has to know....
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 05:50 PM
 
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

IOm sure H8 knows Tom

Ive seen it posted on the POR bbs, but I cant recall.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 06:47 PM
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

5-760X is the new number. It is forged according to Spicer and better than the 'old' 5-297X.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 06:51 PM
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

Most of the time they haven't a clue as to what the Spicer number is, but be persistent and educate them. Also, the 5-760-1X denotes the greaseable ones, the non-greaseable's are 5-760-X.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 08:24 PM
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

www.ctmracing.com with warn shafts.
post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2002, 11:31 PM
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

I have spent a great deal of time researching u joints and axles, prior to investing into a major CJ project I am doing. I think that I got the best answer from Currie Enterprises Tech Department. The one thing that you have to remember is the U joint is the least expensive and most cost effective component to replace. If you add a indestructable U Joint such as the Ox you are only transferring the weakness to a different area of the drive line and if something breaks odds are it is going to be a hell of a lot more expensive than a Dana spicer 297. I thought about adding a set of Warn chromolly axles to my front end and was really set on the idea, until I got off the phone with Currie.
post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2002, 12:07 AM
 
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

Yeah right, Currie is blowing smoke up your a$$, because its not a product that they carry or manufacture.
Now lets look at the well tested facts.
First, of all OX doesnt have a high strength joint, (although they have talking about it and advertising it for almost a year).
Second, when you bust a weak U joint, it doesnt just break the U joint, it usually takes out the inner and outer yokes, and very often it takes out the Ball joint. On the average, my old 297X breakages used to cost about $100 in shafts and joints, not to mention the time to change the assembly on the trail, and then to rebuild a spare at camp or home. I would often break up to 6 joints in a 3 or 4 day trip to the Hammers, thats 3 to 4 hundo in parts(or more). Everytime the joint breaks, the yoke ears on the shaft also get weaker.
Third, The D44 is so much stronger of an axle assembly(if used with a high strength locker such as a Detroit or ARB) than the stock joints, that it can, and has withstood even high strength axle assembly failures.
Fourth, The warn high strength locking hubs become the next weak link, they easily shatter before, the diff, or drivelines, (provided that the drivelines are high quality shafts and joints) The warn hubs are also, warrantied over the counter, so replacements are free.
Fifth, The CTM joints and Warn axle shaft combo has been tested by dozens of rigs in competitions across the country, including myself, Mike Shaffer, Lance Clifford,Jason Bunch, and on and on,...so they do work, and the diffs do not fail. In fact without the CTM/Warn Combo, competing with a D44 would be nearly impossible.

Just goes to show, you cant believe everything a salesman you have never met tells you over the phone,...but you already knew that didnt you????

Tom,
back to your question, the 760 X joints are proving to be considerably stronger than the 297 x. It is a good idea to tack weld them into the yokes however to keep them from twisting out of the ears.
Any competent NAPA parts man can order them for you.
Good Luck
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2002, 07:55 AM
 
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

Yeah, what H8 said ... [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

The 760 UJoints still aren't commonly listed.
When I asked my Spicer dealer for some they called Spicer headquarters, confirmed they indeed exhisted and I had a set in my hands within a few days.

The strongest D44 combo ...
Warn alloy shafts
CTM UJoints.
Warn internal spline "Conversion Hubs" that elimenate bolt on lock outs.
Warn conversion hub internal lock outs for street and trail.
or ... better ...
Warn conversion hub drive flanges for pure off-road.

Next weekest link ... yoke and drive shaft.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2002, 08:27 AM
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Re: Need new U-joints for my D44, Which ones??

Yup,
I agree with Jaffer and H8Monday. We had problems for years in off-road racing competition until the warn/CTM combo came out. We frequently would blow out the u-joint, ball joint, axles, ruin a knuckle, and sometimes the "C" part of the housing end. No fun losing all that in a hairpin turn. We quit having problems with the Warn/CTM combo. At the very least, run the 760 series Spicer u-joints. Nickmil.
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