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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-27-2002, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Nutter Specific Timing?

Alright, well while I was pounding a dent out of my oil pan, I decided to take the plunge and do the nutter bypass on my YJ.
Much like evryone else has said, it runs A LOT better, though it still acts odd at idle, and I'm fairly certain it has something to do with the timing.
I've got the vacuum advance that goes to the distributor conencted to ported vacuum...

Anyway, is there any specific timing I need to set the engine to, or does it really depend on the specific vehicle?

I was out testing it on some hills when it died all the sudden and refused to start again. At this point I had it set to 8 degrees @ 1600RPM. To get it to start I set it back somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 degrees BTDC and it started right up.

FYI: Albuquerque is right around 5300 feet in elevation..dunno if that's important..
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-27-2002, 08:40 PM
 
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

This has come up recently in some of TeamRush's posts. According to him, by doing the Nutter bypass you've eliminated the factory timing computer. The computer controlled distributors had a lack of centifugal advance, due to the fact that basic timing was controlled by the computer you've just bypassed. You should be able to use a '78-'79 Jeep 258 distributor which is a non-computer controlled dist. I'd also recommend the TeamRush ignition upgrade to help smooth out the idle and give you better all around performance. If you're not familiar with the upgrade, do a search here for "TeamRush upgrade" and you'll get hundreds of helpful posts. The upgrade consists of a cap, cap adaptor, and rotor from a '82 FOrd F-150 pickup with the 300 I-6 engine, a set of spark plug wires from a 1992 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 (they will have the correct connections at both ends), and finally a TFI coil from a Ford vehicle that has EEC. Later model Escorts should fit the bill for the coil.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2002, 06:03 PM
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

I did the Nutter to my 87 and set the timing at around 11 or 12 BTDC and it runs great, plenty of advance, it actually has real accelleration now, it pulls strong well past 3000 RPM.

I also did the TR upgrade and the later model (early 90's) Escort coils are not TFI coils and they won't work, they are a totally different thing, all of the plug wires run to it. I used a coil from a 93 Ford Probe, it is a TFI coil.

I also used the 92 Cherokee wires, but if you use them, you need to mount your TFI coil in the same place as the stock coil because the coil wire in the set is very short. I don't know about any other factory brackets, but the one from my Probe coil worked great in the stock location after enlarging and slightly elongating the mounting holes a bit.

The TR upgrade is well worth doing, especially if your cap and wires are in need of replacement anyway. I think it allows you to take full advantage of the Nutter Bypass.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2002, 10:13 PM
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

I forgot to mention that I also am now using the mid grade gas instead of 87 octane, I haven't tried the 87 yet so I don't know if it'll ping with the extra advance I have. I double checked the timing tonight and I'm right around 10-12 BTDC.

Even using the higher octane fuel I'm sure it costs me less overall for gas because it runs so much better, and no more having to nail it to get up some of the big hills around here.

These two mods are honestly the best gain in drivability and horsepower for almost no money that I've ever done on any vehicle. It reminds me of all those ads from the JC Whitney catalogs in the 60's, "Double your horsepower and triple your gas milage with new miracle device, only 13.99 "
post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2002, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

How are you setting the timing though?
The "normal" way...i.e. XX degrees @ 1600RPM with Vacuum advance disconencted/plugged?
Or at some other speed?

Just for quick testing, I've been setting mine at "idle", which on mine is about 750. I've had it set anywhere from 2 BTDC @ 750 to where I am now which is like 14 BTDC @ 750.

I'll be due for a fill-up here in a few days..so I may try some 88 octane because all we have around here is 86, 88, and 90.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2002, 10:48 PM
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

The gas won't help the problem your having, it may help prevent pinging from increase advance. It sounds like something else is wrong. I set my timing using 1600 RPM. After you set it using 1600 RPM, what is it at idle? If you rev the engine and look at the timing mark does it advance? Did you remove the ignition module when you did the bypass, because it sound like it might not be well grounded. I think your entire ignition system gets its ground from the single screw that mounts the module to the fender. Did you do the nutter along with something else at the same time, like a new cap and rotor or something? Could you have created a vacume leak moving the advance vacuum to the ported side? Maybe its just a coincidense and your idle tubes picked the same time to clog up making it look like the nutter bypass is at fault.
post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2002, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

I had previously set it at 10 BTDC @ 1600. It ran alright, but not great.
At idle..if I remember correctly it was like 2 or 4 BTDC @ 750.

Revving the engine does cause the timing mark to climb steadily to 20 degrees and beyond.

Ignition module as not disturbed beyond the wires coming out of the bottom of it, it was never removed or even physically touched.

I put in a new rotor, cap, and plug wires (cap and rotor are brass Borg Warner, wires are some Autolite ones) on Tuesday. Did the bypass on Saturday.

The vacuum advance line has always been connected to the ported vacuum on the carb as long as I've owned the Jeep.

As for the idle tubes....about a week and a half to two weeks ago I took the carb apart far enough to get to the idle tubes and drilled them out to 0.034 or so. I also cleaned the carb pretty thoroughly.

Finally, no vacuum leaks that I'm aware of due to the redneck style "spray carb cleaner on every hose and see what happens" check.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-29-2002, 07:17 AM
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Re: Nutter Specific Timing?

Are the connections you made when doing the bypass good? Soldered and insulated well? The battery ws disconnected when you actually did the bypass?

I drilled out my idle tubes (032) and they got clogged up again about a week later. I'm going to try 040 next time it happens.

Otherwise I'm stumped, but there was some talk on here about ignition modules acting up. The Modules would get hot and the Jeep would just stall and not start back up until they cooled sufficiently.
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