Re: Ignition problem
OK, here we go one more time...
(This is the guys first post, I smell bait...)
FILL OUT YOUR BIO!
Why are you leaving the key switch in the 'Run' position without the engine running?
Do you know you can turn the key backwards for an 'Accessory' position, and it won't kill your ignition?
Do you have 12 volts at the positive terminal of the ignition, or around 8 volts? (resistor or no resistor)
You should have a resistor wire from the factory.
If you don't have a resistor, and are getting a full 12 volts to the coil, you can install an ignition resistor in the positive wire to the coil and stop this problem. Auto Zone (Wells) p/n F799 is what the factory uses, or you can use a pot type resistor...
We need to know if you have done the ignition upgrade?
Using the E-core coil or the stock coil?
Have you spliced in a good ground wire to the module black wire?
Stop buying crap parts,
Get the module from someplace like NAPA where you can get a Borg-Warner, and don't forget to splice into the black wire from the module and run a ground directly to the battery or primary ground wire. This will ensure a good ground for the primary ignition system.
Get a good coil, like Borg-Warner or MSD. Make sure the engine (especially the heads) have a good ground. Don't rely on the little crappy (or missing) 'Engine ground' strap, or the alternator to ground your secondary ignition system.
Modules crap out because of too much current draw (dead grounded when the ignition is 'On' but the engine isn't running...) through the coil and bad module grounds.
Coils fail because of over heating when you are setting with engine not running, but the ignition is 'On', and when the secondary voltage has no where to go, like when the heads don't have a good ground.