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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2002, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Timing help needed - TR

I am trying to get the timing right on my 258 (86 CJ7, stock distributor, MSD 6A, TR upgrade). I set the timing to 10 degrees with the engine running at approx 700RPM. The engine seems to run OK and no obvious signs of detonation, but it does diesel when I turn it off.

I did notice that it did not make a difference if I had the vacuum line hooked up to the distributor or not. The vacuum is coming out of a MC2100 the port in the front of the carb. I believe it is a spark-ported vacuum.

I assume I need to replace the vacuum advance diaphragm that goes into the distributor. Is there a specific one I should get? While I am at it, should I rehab the stock distributor? Should I replace the springs in the distributor? If so with what and where do I get them?

The 258 is stock except for the MC2100 + Nuttor bypass + ignition upgrades + RV cam.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 12:19 AM
 
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

take the cap off the distributer, move the vacum advance armeture by hand, then put your finger over the vac nipple, if it the suction holds it form returning the diapraghm is good, if it snaps back its bad.

does it always diesel? even when cold?
that might be more of a fuel rich condition, its been so long since I used a 2100 I cant recall if that sthe correct port for teh vac adv or not, I THINK it is though.

sorry I cant be more help
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 08:01 AM
 
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

Also....
Does the manual call for a carb ported vacuum or manifold vacuum? Different advances used different vacuum signals.

Depending on where the ports on the carb are, you can either get vacuum at idle or vacuum at higher throttle openings. You have to make sure it is the correct one for the engine.

How about capping the line and using a manual vacuum pump to pump up the dist vacuum advance? That will tell you whether it is working or not.

If the diaphragm is bad, some times it is just cheaper to get a whole rebuilt distributor than a new vacuum diaphragm.

Best regards

John
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 08:30 AM
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

I just did mine last week. You need to plug the hose on your distributor when you time it. I set mine at 13 degress @ 1600 RPM.
I have a MC2100 and a mid range cam and Borla header.
As far as vac lines, I ran the one from the distributor to the port vacuum on the passanger side of the carb. I also ran the pvc to the back of the carb and ran a tee to the carcoal canister that says PCV on it. I also left the return gas line on the canister. I plugged the other two nipples on the canister.It has been running great. Cap off any other ports on the carb. The only thing I need to do is to change my choke to a manuel. I will have to go to the bone yard and see what I can find. I set my fuel mixture at about 3 1/2 turns. My plugs are a nice light brown color.
Hope this helps.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 04:37 PM
 
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

When you say, "Run On..." do you mean that gasping death rattle type of run on, or the engine just continues to run on like normal until you pull the coil wire?

If the engine runs on like normal with the MSD module, you will need to install a diode in the excite wire to the alternator.

If you are talking about the death rattle type of run on, use some engine cleaner (valve backs and combustion chamber cleaner)
Check to make sure there are no fuel leaks and you aren't way over rich at idle.
Make sure the throttle blades close properly when you are at idle...

If you have an air leak, and you have compensated with extra fuel to get the mixture right, having the throttle blades closed will not make a bit of difference.

I need to know if you have the rattle or just running on...
Unplug the alternator two wire connector and see if the problem persists...
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

The gasping death rattle type. It only lasts for a couple seconds. The engine only has about 500 miles on it. I just replaced the carb because the old one started leaking into the intake after the engine was turned off. Every time I started it up I got a huge black puff of smoke and it was hard to start. That did not go on for very long (maybe 50 miles). Do I get a fuel additive combustion chamber cleaner? If so what do you recommend?

I am still concerned about the vacuum advance. Any ideas? If I need to replace the diaphragm I might as well put in the heavier spring. Where do I get these and what do I ask for?
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

A rebuilt distributor by A1 Cardone is $65.00. A new vacuum advance is $31.00. Is it worth while to get the new distributor.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

WOW, NAPA sells a rebuilt one for $52.49.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

I feel like I am talking to myself.

Anyways, I guess I need to find out if it is worthwhile to replace my distributor? I don't even know if it is broken.

If I do replace it I will add the new springs (Mr. Gasket P/N 925D). Can I just pop the new springs in or do I need to put it on a distributor machine?

Is the stock vacuum advance the best replacement or is there another aftermarket or one of another vehicle that would work better?
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2002, 10:48 PM
 
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Re: Timing help needed - TR

if the cost break is between $31 for the cav advance module, and $55 for a complete distributer including vac advance, then Id probably opt for teh rebuilt ( as long as it was Napa with a warrenty)

is the vac advance diapragm for sure ruptured?

you can put whatever springs/weights in there you want, but its alot of trial and error, I guess.

I havent messed inside a 6cyl distributer, I assume its like an AMC V8 inside though.

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