Re: resleeving cylinder
All 'FULL ON RACING ENGINES' are sleeved.
All aluminum racing engines have sleeves, most are ductile iron.
There are a few stainless steel sleeves out there, but those are pretty much special application items.
If you don't sleeve a wet aluminum block, the piston will visit water in short order...
If it's a clean hole knocked in the wall that isn't too big (no more than 3/4") a plain sleeve job will do just fine.
If there is a depressed area around the hole, like where a rod broke or a piston pin came loose and pressed a groove in the cylinder wall, you should use a filler or get a new block.
(there are high temp bonding fillers just for this purpose)
The sleeve will have a tendency to follow (drop into) a groove or hole more than about an inch in diameter or an inch long.
When the sleeve follows the groove or hole, your rings will not seal the cylinder, and will 'chatter' when they get back into contact with the sleeve...
Get this in writing across the bill of sale, or don't accept the engine, no matter how well you know the shop people...
The shop guarantees 100% parts and labor for any expenses incurred from internal water leaks...
If they won't write it on the receipt, don't accept the engine...
The tricky part about putting in a sleeve isn't machining the block, it's installing the sleeve so it doesn't buckle, warp or leak.
If they won't put it in writing, don't trust the shop to do the work.