I was having clutch/tranny probs so I just rebuilt the tranny and put a new clutch in Friday. After bleeding, the pedal engaged about 1/2" off the floor so that was good but it was really soft. Drove it for awhile and it started to not disengage all the way. Bled it again and now it was firm and everything is o.k. Drive a little more, pedal is soft, engages 6" off the floor, doesn't disengage all the way, etc. The slave cylinder is brand new and I'm not losing any fluid that can be seen with the naked eye. Is it the master cylinder???
I have no idea, but a guy on the board had a proublem with the line going from the master to the slave. If I recall, the rubber part of the cable would heat up and then his clucth would go away. after he let the jeep cool the clutch would come back. maybe it is to close to the exhuast now.
PS, I'm doing my clutch/trans this weekend. how did you lift it. Did you use a transmision jack? or just bench press it.
Oh yeah, bench press all the way. But be sure to use two hands at all times [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] No, I rented a tranny jack from Bunce - $20 for 24 hours. Worth it for sure.
Are you rebuilding the tranny or just doing the clutch? In either case, save yourself a lot of trouble and get a couple helpers and DON'T FORGET to put a jack under the engine and use it to align the shaft so it comes out and goes in clean. We spent forever trying to get the thing in until we realized that it doesn't matter what angle you put the tranny at if the engine is at the wrong angle and won't line up!!!!
Sounds like air is getting in somewhere.
Check to make sure you haven't lost or forgotten the light return spring on the fork underneath. I know it sounds unrelated, but if the slave's piston doesn't have any "push back" pressure on it, just allowed to float, air can get in past the cup seals.
Some systems don't use the spring, but if yours had it, check.