Now see, there is the rub,
I build everything from scratch except for the harness, and that I spend about an hour modifying so it connects easily with the screwed up way AMC did the Jeep harness.
You have to tell me EXACTLY what you have now, EXACTLY what you are going to use or want to use, and I'll custom build your harness to fit the application...
As I'm taking heat for now, there is no such thing as 'Opinion' in ignition systems.
There are the facts, and they are carved in stone. You have to build to conform to the facts.
And the 'One size fits all' guys are all morons trying to steal a buck from you.
One size fits nothing.
I refuse to sell junk.
With the $75 harness kit...
Start by laying out the harness right over the top of your engine and figuring out where you want your components...
Distributor and coil are pretty well fixed for position so start by just wire tieing the distributor or coil connector to your current distributor and working backwards from there.
Lay out the harness the way you think it should go for your application.
Primary and alternator leads are long enough you can get away with a BUNCH of configurations, and you are NOT restricted to factory locations...
Figure out where you want the module, and screw it down
If you start at the coil positive terminal, strip back the wrapping on your harness, you will find a splice where the primary ignition wire (usually 10 Ga. or 12 Ga.) goes two or three different directions.
1. Locate that splice.
2. Cut away the old harness.
3. Cut my primary ignition feed wire for length (They are CLEARLY marked and I leave them WAY too long just in case you want to do something tricky).
4. Splice my harness onto that Factory 10 Ga. feed wire.
(This way your factory tach and ignition switch still work. If you are using a switch panel, connect the primary to the Ignition switch feed)
5. Use the supplied heat shrink to seal the splice.
6. Trim for length the solenoid 'I' terminal wire and crimp on the supplied 'Eye' connector.
7. Plug in the distributor, module & coil. You now have the factory connectors that Ford/ AMC/ Jeep used for the DuraSpark ignition and the Motorcraft distributor.
8. Have a beer and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!
The only thing you have left is to cut to length and connect the alternator/ voltage regulator wire and run the primary charging wire.
If you specify what alternator you are using, I can supply the correct diagram for hook-up, and I can supply the correct connector plug with diode built in for the Delco SI series internally regulated alternator. That also comes with a 14 Ga. fusible link for the primary charging wire from the alt. 'Batt' terminal to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid. Use the fusible link on the solenoid end.
($10 extra when you buy a harness, $15 if you don't buy a harness.)
Brian also bought a complete distributor.
He got a reman distributor that I took apart and 'Tweaked' (them secrets ain't free!).
All new consumable internals, new vacuum advance, aftermarket springs, indexed correctly, updated Premium Cap & Rotor.
The distributor for a V-8 is $160 out the door.
The only option that he didn't go for was the E-core coil connector.
The harness comes with a Ford style canister coil connector, a very good design, but the coil it's self is a little dated.
The Ford style E-core coil connector allows you to use the new style HEI coil, and it DOES make a difference!
The connector is $15 if you by it with a harness, $20 if you don't.
(I will send you the older style canister coil connector wired to be used as an 'Add On', just in case you have a coil failure and the round coil is all that's available. How's that for flexibility and redundancy!)