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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-27-1999, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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flat towing a dana 20

I'm flat towing my 76 cj-5 close to 2oo miles this week-end,andI know that there are some problems with the dana 300.But what about my dana 20?I dont want to burn anything up on my way to a jeep jamboree!
Thanks.

Ben


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-28-1999, 04:41 PM
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Re: flat towing a dana 20

Ben: I flat tow mine (D20) about 600 miles roundtrip on a regular basis (1-2 times a month). I leave front hubs unlocked, tranny in neutral, t/c in 2H or neutral and disconnect the rear shaft at the axle and tie it it up to the frame. Kind of a pain to disconnect th rear shaft sometimes, BUT it gives you a whole lot of piece of mind.
Shain

post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-28-1999, 04:58 PM
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Re: flat towing a dana 20

<font color=purple> Shain, once or twice a month 600 miles roundtrip? Any reason you haven't purchased a trailer by now? Without a doubt, a trailer is THE way to go if you plan to tow on anything approaching a regular basis. Just really curious. </font color=purple>

TEX

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-28-1999, 06:39 PM
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Re: flat towing a dana 20

Tex: Ya, I've got a tandem axle flat bed that I use some. The main reason I'm flat towing right now has more to do with my tow vehicle than anything else. My 91 Chevy 4x4 has been giving me fits all summer. In the Texas heat, 100 plus seemingly every day, my truck wants to run real hot (240). This is especially true towing. The jeep loaded on the trailer just seems to exacerbate that problem. Flat towing seems to be less weight and less strain on my tired, overheating truck. BTW, as far as the truck's overheating goes this summer the tranny was rebuilt, new Modine radiator (exceeding fact. specs), new 190 thermostat, external tranny cooler, repeatedly cleaned rad fins, good fan clutch, accurate reading on the sending unit. I'm running out of ideas. The GOOD news is I'm gonna retire the pickup here in the next few weeks for a new Ford Super Duty Powerstroke. Then I'll be back on the trailer every trip.
Shain

post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-28-1999, 08:15 PM
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Re: flat towing a dana 20

I've been flat-towing Jeeps for 37 years, now. I guess I just don't know any better. My typical tow is 500 miles, one-way. With the Dana 20, or the Dana 300, I just make sure the TC is full. I actually park it on a slope, and slightly over-fill. I have never disconnected a driveshaft, and so far, my luck is holding, for not hurting anything. My current CJ, which has a 300, and I've had it for about 11 years, has been towed many more miles than it has been driven. I would bet that if I was hurting anything, it would have 'shown' by now.
My .02 Best wishes.

bob
post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-28-1999, 09:55 PM
 
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Re: flat towing a dana 20

dana 20's do not require that the rear is disconnected.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-29-1999, 12:17 AM
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Re: flat on a trailer

I was thinking about constructing the "ideal" Jeep trailer after I towed our CJ about 200 miles on a u-haul auto transporter that weighed a ton (literally, 1980 lbs). My thought is to use only one axle with good sized rubber and 11" brakes, have the Jeep crawl up and over the axle hump, and have as few pounds of steel in it as is humanly possible. If you really scheme on it, you can get down to the basics....light weight...low...single axle (rolls easier)...easy to store....people who don't have Jeeps won't ask to borrow it to move a small bulldozer. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-29-1999, 09:33 AM
TEX
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Re: flat on a trailer

<font color=purple> Shain, if you figure out your overheating problem, let me know. I have a similar problem in my '90 Z71, although not as severe as yours. And yeah, I've done the radiator switch too. I'm thinking maybe I have some sort of cooling block in my heads as the original owner of this truck had the gunkiest coolent I'd ever seen. I had an injector going out & that was causing the motor to run a little lean. Fixed that & it helped. My tow vehicle is not a daily driver, so fuel mileage isn't a concern. So, I'm skipping the diesel route & retiring mine next year in favor of a 2001 Sierra - either with the Vortec 6000, or the 8100 (assuming they really put it in there).

As to the lightweight trailer idea that CJDave mentioned, I once towed a CJ7 on a 12-foot, single-axle trailer with a surge brake. I don't care for surge brakes since they don't work in reverse, but the Jeep DID fit on the trailer - barely. Loading was an adventure as it was a tilt-job with the entire floor over the wheels. You had to winch up the front of the floor, then drive all the way up to the front, then back off the winch. It worked, but I'd still prefer a twin-axle trailer (gives ya 4-wheel brakes if you opt for 'em, for one thing). I'd go 14-feet for a 7 or 12-feet for a 5 or flatfender. Then, only put boards under the tires if you want to save some weight. Also, you don't need to make it any wider than it has to be. This will keep the weight down & keep your friend's "bulldozers" off of it.

Personally, I prefer my wide, 16-footer as I have a lot of extra uses for it besides towing my Toy. And mine with a wrap-around tongue, 6-ply 235/75's, 4-wheel brakes, 6' 9" floor width, treated lumber, & heavy ramps, weighs 1,400 lbs. But, if you want a specific-duty trailer, you could certainly cut out a lot of extra weight.
</font color=purple>

TEX

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-29-1999, 10:01 AM
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Re: flat on a trailer

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] Ditto on the surge brakes, Tex. In all the time I have been towing; and I probably have more miles in front of trailers than some folks have empty; I have never really cared for surge brakes. EVERY NOW AND THEN they work. I have always used electric (or air of course) on my stuff. In the old days we had vacuum (non-brakes) which was a joke [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]. I thought about using a single axle to keep the weight down and get less loss from scuffing. I've had some tandems that pulled like a dream, but I was careful in lining up the axles. I was thinking of a no-ramp jump-on trailer that you just get next to a curb or a dip in the street (after all it's a Jeep) and hop on. The main frame IS the deck...two individual tracks only...and the triangle design (looking from the side) makes it strong and Jeep-specific. I could not BELIEVE how much the u-haul I rented weighed! Right at a ton! That, plus the CJ was a load for my 4.0 ZJ to crank up some of these steep grades.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-29-1999, 12:41 PM
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Re: flat on a trailer

Tex:
Back on the Chevy tow vehicle issue, the bottom line I've reached is that the radiator just doesn't have the capacity to cool that truck with a load behind it in the Texas heat. I've talked to a lot of guys about this and tried everything I can think of. I've been told by more than one Chevy house and radiator shop that the problem is the size of the radiator (wish I knewthat before the new rad purchase). Seems there is a larger factory radiator used on some of the 90s suburbans, like the 3/4 tons, 454s or dual a/c burbs, to make sure they stayed cool. That would be my next approach at the wrecking yard. I don't know which one for sure, and don't know why the h*ll they didn't put that bigger radiator in the Z71s, especially one with tow package, 3.73 LS rear. You can buy one new but I think they run around $500 and there may be some minor bracketry issues.
Shain

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