TR . . . the human multimeter - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2002, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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TR . . . the human multimeter

Good news,the Jeep now starts!

Bad news, I am not exactly sure what the problem was!

I found some bare wires that potentially could have shorted out on the choke cable. I moved them around and the jeep started, but this is after I tore everything apart that I did yesterday and rechecked it. Regardless, it now runs and quite well I might add.

I do have some questions about your questions:

1.) How big is that fuse?
--------I have a 30 amp fuse (and 10 spares now!)

2.)Does the fuse blow when you just turn the key to 'Run'? or Does the engine have to be running?
-------The fuse blew immediately after you turn the key to run.

Now for my own question?

1.) There seems to be a lot of movement between the cap, cap adapter, and distributor. Should all of these parts fit together snuggly. The reason I ask is because there was no part number for the adapter in Autozone's computer for a 1979 F350. The very helpful salesperson (honestly!) knew it was supposed to have one and found one that fit off the shelf.

Thanks for everything so far!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2002, 02:33 PM
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

For the 6, I've read that your adapter should be a screw down adapter, not the clip on adapter. (I have a V8 and only the clip is available.)
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2002, 02:36 PM
 
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

Human multi-meter: this brings up some VERY interesting mental images....for best results, hook one side to the scrotal input, the other side to the tongue. Use aggressive gator-clips to ensure solid connection, then light up your new human multimeter. It's best to start testing with high current, high voltage applications, as it tends to cut down on the "alert" sounds from your new multimeter....

[img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2002, 02:47 PM
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

You hook a 120V power source in line with your connections, bluseman, and then it's a human continuity meter...
post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2002, 02:41 PM
 
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

I don't think I like the way this thread is headed!.... [img]images/icons/blush.gif[/img][img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
<hr>

Bare wires were more than likely your problem...
Put in a 15 amp fuse and see if the ignition lives.
It's supposed to have a 15 amp in place, but an ignition coil with no resistor will do up to 35 amps and sometimes more...
(that's why they are so hard on modules!)

I forgot the question, I'll have to go look again...
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-23-2002, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

TR, how many volts should I have at the coil in the run position? Right now, I have 8 volts.

Also, I will repost the question that you forgot:

"There seems to be a lot of movement between the cap, cap adapter, and distributor. Should all of these parts fit together snuggly. The reason I ask is because there was no part number for the adapter in Autozone's computer for a 1979 F350. The very helpful salesperson (honestly!) knew it was supposed to have one and found one that fit off the shelf."

Thanks.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-23-2002, 10:38 PM
 
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

The voltage is fine for a stock ignition.
You can damn sure tell when the resistor is working!
<hr>

As for the cap...
Put a little more 'Curl' in the spring clips that hold the distributor cap adaptor in place...
Just grab them with a pair of pliers and 'Arch' them some more. Over the years, they get strightened out.
The spring material wasn't the best in the world to start with, and the strighten out over the years, and you have to tighten them up or replace them with new ones every now and again...
If you break one, let me know because I have several spares around here, and I'll foot the $0.34 postage...
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-24-2002, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

I checked the voltage again last night. I have 14.7 volts before the resistor and 8.2 volts after. Is this acceptable? Moreover, I get a weird bogging/miss phenomenom near 1800 rpms. It only happens when the engine is under load (e.g., going up a hill) and I am searching for more pedal.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-26-2002, 03:08 PM
 
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Re: TR . . . the human multimeter

Voltage is fine.

The miss at 1,800 is probably the transition from high idle circuit to main jet circuit in your carb, or detonation.
Detonation can be caused by a number of things, including the transition in the carb, too much advance in the Distributor......

If it were your ignition, changing modules would stop the problem. If it's the distributor, you will need to track the problem down and correct it.

I suggest you stick to one problem at a time when asking questions here... It confuses me when you throw multiple problems at once...
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