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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

the ignition switch went bad and i had to replace the ignition switch, ignition module, coil, and selenoid. after all those were replaced, the engine would turn over and fire, but as soon as i rotated the switch back to the 'run' position, there was no more spark at the coil. somehow, i found out that if i disconnect the wire coming from the coil to the selenoid, the engine runs. as soon as hook it back up to the selenoid, the engine dies. and also the tach doesn't work anymore. it has very slight movements and doesn't go past 500 rpm. i am scratching my head on this one. even though it does run, i am not comfortable driving it yet because i think that there has to be some bigger problems somewhere. any ideas?

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shawn
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 12:54 PM
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

Check your fuse. I got a painless wiring kit for my dad's scrambler and it did the exact same thing. I put a jumper wire from the battery to the + side of the coil to get it started. That was the only way it would work. Painless wiring kits come with the fuses already in the box, so I never thought to check it. Hope that helps.
post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 01:56 PM
 
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

If you switched from a Jeep solenoid to a Ford style solenoid (I haven't been able to find a Jeep style solenoid in two years)...
The small terminals are reversed.

Make sure the Light Blue wire goes to the 'S' terminal, and the Red wire goes to the 'I' terminal.

If there is no wire for the 'I' terminal, make one that goes from the 'I' terminal directly to the positive side of the ignition coil.

Tell me how things turn out....
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

well the selenoid that i got from napa was not the exact one that it called for, but it was supposed to be the same.(didn't have the one i needed in stock) there is a red wire that goes from the 'I' on the seleniod to the coil. this is the one that shorts everything out if i connect it. if i leave it unhooked and nothing connected to the 'I' post, it runs. could it be the wrong selenoid? i know that just because a part is new, doesn't mean it works, but i hate to have to buy 2 of everything. also how warm should the ignition module get? i am afraid that i will end up burning that one up too. And.....how is this effecting the tach?

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 02:45 PM
 
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

I can't answer your questions because I don't know what's wrong yet...
Need more info!
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

ok. what info do you need?

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shawn
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

ok...it was a bad selenoid, so it runs fine now, but no tach. how do you trouble shoot a tach?

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shawn
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 10:16 PM
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

Sounds like you might have just bypassed your tach wiring when rewiring your coil. On my 258, the tach is wired in series with the positive wire to the coil. Where is your coil getting power from during Run?

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2002, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

the odd thing is that the tach does move a little...but never over 500 rpm. and if i disconect any of the red wires that go to the tach the engine dies. any ideas?

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shawn
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2002, 12:28 AM
 
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Re: still more electrical problems (ie - HELP!)

Get a new tach, yours is shot.

The 'Run' ignition power goes through the ignition switch, through the tach, and finally to the module and coil.
Jeep Tachs count the number of 'Positive' pulses (number of times current flows through the ignition coil).

If the 'Run' power wire is going through the tach (and it is, or the engine wouldn't die when you unhooked the tach), and that is all there is to it.
If it's not working, the tach is either wired backward (unless you have moved wires around on the tach, that shouldn't be the case) or the tach is shot.
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