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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2002, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Hard starting engine with screwed up wiring (TR)

I just finished my TR upgrade on my 1978 CJ-7 with an AMC 360. I noticed something funny about the wiring as compared to TR's drawing. First of all, I don't have any wire on the "S" post of the solenoid. Also, I am not sure that I have the splice that bypasses the resistor at start up. I think my start wire is resisted all the time. If this is true could this be the cause of the hard starts? Or, does it have anything to do with the missing wire on the solenoid.

The engine has been hard to start since I bought four years ago (this is not a problem related to the TR upgrade). The engine is only hard to start if I let it sit for a few days. It will eventually start, but only after I let it crank for two minutes in 10-15 second intervals.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2002, 11:21 AM
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Re: Hard starting engine with screwed up wiring (TR)

I had a similar problem with my 84 CJ7 but it was not related to the electrical( I have TFI coil/ignition setup also. In my situation I found that after sitting for a couple of days there was no gas readily available for the carb to pump, it used to take numerous cranks until I finally got enough gas in the bowl to pop. I was able to fix this with an electric fuel pump which bypasses the manual pump. The electric fuel pump starts pumping fuel as soon as the key is turned to the first alt position. This made the CJ7 start on the first key turn most of the time. There are numerous electrical pumps available that are extremely easy to install. Some do make a lot of noise though (typically the cheaper ones). The price can range from about $40 to about $175. Some mount near the fuel tank, others in the engine bay. Here is a link to one I have. http://www.4wd.com/Shop4wd/ProductDe...oductSku=12801

Hope this helps.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-10-2002, 03:31 PM
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Re: Hard starting engine with screwed up wiring (TR)

If you drive it in the morning, let it sit all day, and it starts fine in the evening, it's not an ignition problem.
You are leaking (or evaporating) the gas out of the fuel bowls in the carb more than likely...
The mechanical fuel pumps I've had dealings with have a check valve to keep the fuel from getting back past the pump...

So the loss has to be occurring at the carb.
1. Do you have an obvious fuel leak under the carb?
(We want to know if the fuel is leaking inside, or outside the engine)
2. Does your oil smell like gasoline?
(Pull the dip stick and smell it. You can also take off the oil fill cap and smell there)
--If your oil smells like fuel, you need to check the next step very carefully...--
3. With the Jeep Off and cold, take the air cleaner off and look down the carb throat with a flashlight.
Watch for a good period of time, and see if you can find a drip, or signs where liquid fuel is leaking into the intake manifold.
If you can't find any liquid fuel, (wet stripe in the intake, wet floor in the intake, ect.)...
4. Find a butter tub, or some other plastic bowl that will fit the air cleaner lip on your carb.
Punch a hole in it for your air cleaner stud, and turn the bowl upside down over the carb.
Leave the carb set a few days.
Take the bowl off, and while you watch down the carb, have someone start the engine.
5. Look to see when fuel shows up at the Venturi boosters.
If it takes a long time for the inside of the carb and intake to get fuel, you have a carb problem...
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