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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-10-2002, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Knock Knock .Rod knock

Well I have finally faced the fact that I have a rod Knock,which bumms me out totally,Good old # 5 is calling out to me.I have eliminated anything else it could be .
So what is the best and easiest procedure to repair it ? Before I blow up my engine .
Empty the oil FIRST Right ? DUH !
Guess its kind of hard not to spill it if ya leave it in ,HUH ?
clean it all up and check it with plasti gauge?
replace bearing with proper undersize one button it up.
The weird thing is that my oil pressure is still within factory specs 13 PSI at hot idle.I bought one of those stethascopes on sale at harbor freight ,nothing from top of the engine ,but hearing it in the oil pan,Also telegraphing not as loud down the crank ,so I pulled the plug wire and it went away when I hit #5 ,so I am guessing it is there.
any advice or Insider info will be appreciated.
Its a good thing I don't hate working on the jeep as much as other vehicles.
TIA.



Ray
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why does everyone ask if I am gonna paint it ?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-10-2002, 11:23 PM
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

replace bearing with proper undersize one button it up.

<hr></blockquote>


You were doing OK to here. Use undersize bearing only if crankshaft has been turned undersize.



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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 08:22 AM
 
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

You say not as loud at the bottom. What about the top rod bearing with the piston pin. Slack in here would cause the noise and also no drop in the oil pressure.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 10:37 AM
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

Dodge sometimes put in .001 undersize berrings to make up for problem cranks, without machining. Some tech books will suggest finidng .001 under berrings when re-building because they will fit better than stock on an engine with +100,000.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 06:35 PM
 
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

The least you are going to get away with is two rod bearings...
You will have to change both on that crank throw. You can't just turn on rod on a crank throw...

Pull the #5 rod cap, and have a look...
My guess is you are going to have enough damage the crank throw is going to need to be turned...
That means taking out the crankshaft...

Good time to replace front & rear seals, front cover gasket set, and any other consumable you can reach...
(Like the bearing with the thrust face)

This is a good time to know someone with a micrometer that knows how to use it...

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 06:47 PM
 
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

Your crank will probably have to come out, You can use a penny to check if the crank is damaged. Gently rub the penny across the crank bearing surface, if there is scratches on the crank than some of the penny will rub off and stick in the scratch. You should check all the bearing's since you have it apart! Good Luck:

Rodney C
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 08:48 PM
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

Gawd TR, his profile says it's a 258. It has one journal per piston connecting rod and seven main journals.


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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 09:40 PM
 
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

You also may want to watch for an odd ball radius fillet on the crank shaft.
You may have to trim the bearings to accommodate that fillet correctly.
AMC just does everything a little differently...

If the crank has to be ground, make sure they allow for that fillet like the stock crank shaft had.
If they grind square corners, thats a real good place for a crack to get started on a cast iron crankshaft.
We use a press and roller to roll fillets in here in steel, but it would only make cast iron brittle at the site of compression.
Have the fillets ground in just like the stock ones were.

Check your end play before you remove the crank.
If you check the end play, and try a couple of sizes of thrust faces on the bearings, you may be able to tighten up the end play while you have the crank out.

IF there is any metal galling in the #5 (or any other bearing you remove) make sure to disassemble and clean the oil pump by-pass valve and the oil pump it's self. Even a tiny fragment here could cause large problems later.

While the crank is out, you may want to use a straight edge and check for alignment of the main bores.

If you have any questions, feel free to email me [email protected] and we'll go over any questions you may have with out the village idiot being present.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

This has not been the best of years so far,lots of big ticket items causing me grief Air conditioning replacement,washer dryer,and other stuff,but I still have my health (KNOCK on wood)as it is.My job is shakey as the San Andreas <sp Fault.every day I go to work wondering if there will be a job there,SO I guess I had better try to dodge this bullet with my name on it,I was just going to have my other block rebuilt and swap it in but I am leery about spending the cash right now.So I will have to try to fix this one If it is fixable.

This is a REmanufactured engine about two years old give or take and the knock has been around a while,I didn't expect much when I put it in and it didn't disappoint me.
The knock is loudest at the oil pan and stops when # 5 plug wire is pulled

I won't know for sure till I open it up.I guess you pick up plasti gauge at any auto store ,how about bearings ,how are they sold ? would an auto parts store sell them Individually or in sets
the manual says you can use different size bearings as long as they don't differ by more than .001" .
Well thanks again for the input

Ray
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2002, 10:17 PM
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Re: Knock Knock .Rod knock

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

would an auto parts store sell them Individually or in sets

<hr></blockquote>


Why not replace them all if you already went to the trouble to take the pan off? If one went the others may not be far behind. I'm guessing from your comments that you already know that you can pull the oil pan and change the rod bearing without removing or disassembling the engine.



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