You also may want to watch for an odd ball radius fillet on the crank shaft.
You may have to trim the bearings to accommodate that fillet correctly.
AMC just does everything a little differently...
If the crank has to be ground, make sure they allow for that fillet like the stock crank shaft had.
If they grind square corners, thats a real good place for a crack to get started on a cast iron crankshaft.
We use a press and roller to roll fillets in here in steel, but it would only make cast iron brittle at the site of compression.
Have the fillets ground in just like the stock ones were.
Check your end play before you remove the crank.
If you check the end play, and try a couple of sizes of thrust faces on the bearings, you may be able to tighten up the end play while you have the crank out.
IF there is any metal galling in the #5 (or any other bearing you remove) make sure to disassemble and clean the oil pump by-pass valve and the oil pump it's self. Even a tiny fragment here could cause large problems later.
While the crank is out, you may want to use a straight edge and check for alignment of the main bores.
If you have any questions, feel free to email me [email protected]
and we'll go over any questions you may have with out the village idiot being present.
So many cats, so few recipes...