Re: OT: How do I paint chrome?
Cheap way, Toilet bowl cleaner. "The Works" brand is particularly effective. Likes skin too, so be careful. Let it stand on the chrome, and it won't take long, if the piece is too big to 'dip', then use paper towels on the piece, and soak them.
Little more expensive are chemical removers like 'Zip Strip'. That crap cost me $1,100 for re chrome on my vintage Mustang chrome.
It's not real expensive to have a local chrome shop 'Dip' your parts to 'Clean' them... It's the prep to chrome, and the chrome it's self that cost a lot.
Sand, shot, bead blast.
Careful here, you can cause pits real easy with the wrong media.
I use glass beads most of the time, a little pricy, but does a great job.
Those bucket/ siphon 'sand' blasters are under $20 at Harbor Freight...
! WARNING ! NEVER use glass beads on anything aluminum! The little glass bastards penetrate the aluminum, then explode like hollow point bullets!
Real hard on the aluminum, and leaves open 'Pours' that always seem to show up no matter what you do to prep the surface to paint.
Sanding... (...And sanding, and sanding, and sanding, and sanding...)
"Chrome" is a layer of HARDENED CHROMIUM, and it is a b*tch to sand through!
You can't use real rough abrasives or you will mar the item you want to paint... So it's slow as sh*t...
On something the size of a bumper, don't plan on anything for about a week of free time....
Heat the chrome until it blisters or splits.
(you can use a heat gun, but it's not near as much fun!)
This is expensive, dangerous, and REAL FUN!
Hard Chromium likes to pop, blister and split.
Heat the crap out of it, and throw cold water on it! (Woo-Hoo!)
I use a styrofoam cup full of water, freeze it, and tear the sides of the cup back to use the ice... This gets REAL results! (don't let the styrofoam melt to the metal, ... You think chrome was stubborn!...)
Some items don't take heat well, (like aluminum bumpers off late '70's- early '80's cars, or items that are made of hardened steel or aluminum....) Or thin metal, the heating and cooling distorts the sheet metal.
Don't forget to 'Metal Prep' the area right after you are done, and after every sanding on bare metal.
(metal prep NOT the same thing as primer...)
Use a good primer, (I prefer self etching, but it's expensive) and don't try to use it like body filler...
That's what body filler and spot putty are for. All metal and spot putty are a lot faster, cheaper, and do a real good job used correctly...
So many cats, so few recipes...