Any thoughts on Bolt-in cages vs. Weld-in cages?? Does anyone have any experience with a bolt-in unit??

Randy
'83 CJ7

Are you taking "bolt in" to the floor, or bolt in to the main hoop? The Smittybuilt, Kentrol or other kits that require welding together are worth the effort. They of course, bolt to the floor, but weld to the main hoop. I bought my kit from 4wd Hardware for about $119.00.

Tim

84 CJ7, 258, HEI, M/C 2100 carb, 5 inch lift, RS9000's, 33x12.5 BFG M/T's, 4.56's and Detroit softlocker, full cage & belts, Xenon flares, Dana 44 rear, GM dual diaphragm brake booster

I did the same Smittybult cage for the same $
Felt better knowing that my welds were going to hold. I could be wrong, but the bolt in thing just didnt sit right with me. I have welded in 4 cages now. Have seen only 1 bolt together cage. I like mine much better though

Chu
79 CJ/89 YJ tub,32/36,HEI,Jeep T-18/Dana 20 with homemade twin stick,4" lift,35 MT/Rs, on-board air,D44 rear,D30
front,both locked,Warn 8274 winch,Warn front axles,Tom Woods driveshafts...

I did the same Smittybult cage for the same $
Felt better knowing that my welds were going to hold. I could be wrong, but the bolt in thing just didnt sit right with me. I have welded in 4 cages now. Have seen only 1 bolt together cage. I like mine much better though

Chu
79 CJ/89 YJ tub,32/36,HEI,Jeep T-18/Dana 20 with homemade twin stick,4" lift,35 MT/Rs, on-board air,D44 rear,D30
front,both locked,Warn 8274 winch,Warn front axles,Tom Woods driveshafts...

I have seen a couple of different bolt-in cage kits (bolt to main hoop) no welding required. They looked to be well thought out but I wanted the opinions of the experts. It would seem that the welded kits are the less expensive way to go.

Randy
'83 CJ7

I think that inpart, your paying for the ease of bolting it to its self. The price is great if you can weld or have access to one. You can also put extra spreaders ([email protected]) anywhere you want, not just where they say you have to

Chu
79 CJ/89 YJ tub,32/36,HEI,Jeep T-18/Dana 20 with homemade twin stick,4" lift,35 MT/Rs, on-board air,D44 rear,D30
front,both locked,Warn 8274 winch,Warn front axles,Tom Woods driveshafts...

i would always weld them in.. if you cant.. then a machine shop could.. just get it all ready to go.. then they can just run the beads.. shouldnt cost ya that much.. and always tie them into the frame..

http://www.jeepgod.net


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Weld it it together, tie it to the frame is the best way to go, imo.

<font color=purple>pbm</font color=purple>
<font color=red>There is a difference between being Educated and Intelligent!</font color=red>

Here's my thoughts:
A bolt in cage is better than nothing. I'd much rather roll over on a bolted on cage then roll over on nothing because the weld in cage is sitting in the garage waiting to be welded.
That being said, I have a bolt on cage from M.O.R.E. and I like it. It seems pretty sturdy, and again, better than nothing. I plan to add some more spreaders to strengthen it up.
Now, that raises another question...If you have a bolt in cage (like I do) can you eventually weld the joints to the main hoop and joints at the front hoop? Will that make a bolt-in much stronger?


Dan 84 CJ-7,Weber,HEI. 95 ZJ,V8. http://www.cableone.net/wdohrn

Welded and gussetted is even better. As mentioned previously, if you can't weld, do all the prep work yourself, cut tubes to length and fishmouth properly for minimal gaps, and take it to a shop. If you have a 110v mig or something, put it all together and tack it in position then take it to the shop. They will make quick work of it with a 220 v mig welder.

Tim

84 CJ7, 258, HEI, M/C 2100 carb, 5 inch lift, RS9000's, 33x12.5 BFG M/T's, 4.56's and Detroit softlocker, full cage & belts, Xenon flares, Dana 44 rear, GM dual diaphragm brake booster