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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-09-2001, 01:45 AM
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360 BUILD UP

WELL GUYS, I'M ON MY TO THE MACHINE SHOP TO GET MY 360 BORED .30 OVER. THE BUILD UP BEGINS!!!!! I'LL POST PICTURES AND NOTES ON PROGRESS LATER. HOPEFULLY I'LL ANSWER A LOT OF QUES. FOR YOU GUYS AS I GO. I KNOWN THERE ARE LOTS OF THEM WITH NO ANSWERS AS I SOON FOUND OUT.

BUILD-IT-DONT-BUY-IT.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-10-2001, 08:23 AM
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

Good luck. I'm sure you're finding good info, but I just recently dropped a reman. 360 in my G-wag so if there is something I can help you with I will do my best. Best of luck, keep us posted.

Phil

Phillip J. Van Why
1985 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-11-2001, 03:31 PM
 
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

Whats the average cost to have a 360 rebuilt? What would it take to turn a 360 into a 401?

'89 Comanche, '89 Wrangler, '74 Postal
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-12-2001, 02:33 AM
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

Well for mine i'm going .30 over, edelbrock cam/carb/intake/springs, 9:1 pistons and cutting crank,rods,valves etc. i'm also cleaning my heads (smoothing not porting,I wouldn't dare). i'm keeping my old intake setup (smog perposes). prices are as follows.
machine shop $435.00 for all cutting, resurfacing, etc.
edlebrocks and other engine stuff at 20% discount (hook up)
tranny rebuild 20% discount (hook up)
shifter,shift kit,tow convert.
everything else is being done by me. total price $1200.00
axle swap (free axles from f250) gears, lockers, will see what the prices will be.
what i'm saying is that if you do most of the work you can rebuild the 360 to any size for as little as $340 (summit engine rebuild). just depends on how lucky you are.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2001, 03:50 PM
 
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

I think it would take a 401 block to turn a 360 into a 401.

IM pretty sure there isnt enough meat in teh walls to overbore it that much.

the cheapest Ive found rebuild kits ( complete) was $400 at northern autopartts.

does summit have a cheaper kit?




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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2001, 09:17 PM
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

All AMC V8's have the same block,304,360,401 etc. All it takes to turn a 360 into a 401 is to put in a 401 crankshaft, and bore it to the correct size.

78 CJ5/360/33's
post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 05:32 PM
 
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

I dont think thats true eric, or 401 blocks with standard bore wouldnt be worth what they are.

the are the same size outside, the bores are differnt thicknesses.

if a 304 could be bored to a 401 why would .060 be a 304s max overbore?



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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-16-2001, 08:56 AM
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

The AMC 390 & 401 have a bore of 4.165". The AMC 304 has a bore of 3.750". The AMC 360 has a bore of 4.080". The AMC 390 has a stroke of 3.570". The AMC 401 has a stroke of 3.680". I would think an AMC 390 block could be made into a AMC 401 by using the 401 crank.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-16-2001, 05:01 PM
 
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

yep Dave.

the 390 actually became the 401 ( forged crank and rods were in teh 390 also)

the 340 ( or was it 343?) became the 360

and the 290 became the 304.

they all got enlarged, the 290,343,390 are an older vintage than the 304/360/401


I think they just all got stroked a bit

check out hammers site for good amc engine info

froadin.com




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post #10 of (permalink) Old 05-08-2002, 07:14 PM
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Re: 360 BUILD UP

I do believe that the 390~401 have thicker webbing in the main cap area, allowing the installation of 4 bolt caps if desired. I also believe that the 390 and 401s casting is nearly identical to the 360 "beefy block" that was released in 1970 and had an extremely low production run, just enough to validate it for TransAm, NASCAR, and NHRA use.

To make some ponies with the 360, first you have to decide what rev range you want to use. Also, the higher reving builds need to have a "loose" converter and a revy rear gear.

* Redline at 6000 - stock cast pistons (9 to 1), "3/4" cam and kit, 3-angle valve job, dual plane aluminum Performer style intake, Holley 3310 vac sec. 4bbl. and electric fuel pump, small tube headers, electronic ignition, 3.54 rear gear.

* Redline at 7000 - cast pistons could be used, forged are better (10 to 1), ARP rod bolts would be nice, oil mods to supply the rear mains with more oil, oil mod to supply the distributor gear, lumpier cam and kit, good dual row roller timing chain, good comp valve job and clean up the ports, single plane Torker style intake, could use the 3310, or use a 750 to 850 double pumper if using a loose converter or stick and a 4.10 rear gear, big tube headers, electronic ignition and a MSD 6AL box.

* Redline at 8000 - same as above but go another step on the cam and kit (follow cam maker's recommendation), 10.5~1 forged pistons are now mandatory and since you are buying pistons, go with smallblock Chevy pistons and Eagle H-beam (sbc) rods (the big end will need to be milled a lil thinner), a 4.56 or 4.88 gear to get out of the hole. Some additional crankcase vents should be added to the valve covers.

Roller rockers, stud girdle and tall valve covers could be added to any of these builds. Titanium retainers, hardened pushrods, lash caps, etc. can also be added if $$$ permits.

Of course, these recomendations are very general, and I am assuming that we are starting with a set of heads from a 360 or 401 that have the big valves and screw in rocker studs. Also assuming competant machine shop services that include resizing the rods and balancing the rotating assy. The gearing sugestions are for a rwd car and std diameter tires. You will have to calc this for your setup. Just remember that most anything you add at the top of the powerband will be lost from the bottom, and you have to gear it for good launches. The looser torque converter is so we can get the motor into the meaty part of the power band at launch. generally speaking, a smaller converter launches at a higher speed. I've heard of people sticking vega converters into TH350s and 400s to get a better launch. I would also advise you to either wrap your bellhousing with a transmission blanket or use a "rigid" bellhousing cover for automatics, and use a scattershield when building a stick shift car. A friend of mine had the converter or parts of it blow up thru the floor, thru the pass seat, and dent the roof of his car last year. He got to keep his feet, this time.

Well, I'm sure that I forgot to write something, but I'm getting thirsty, so......bye
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