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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2000, 11:43 PM
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Engine Swap

I have a 84' Grand Wagoneer, and the engine is more or less dead. I also just inherited a 78' Wagoneer, that is more or less junk(not much salvagible). The 78' was my uncle's truck, and he put a new 401 in less than a month ago not even 100 miles on it yet. I want to know if the 401 will fit in my Grand Wagoneer, I know that there will be a lot of fitting required but will it fit dimensionally?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-26-2000, 01:38 AM
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Re: Engine Swap

Should just drop right in if you have the 360 ) Other then the wiring and mayme the emissions stuff you should be good.
Dustin

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 12:31 AM
 
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Re: Engine Swap

Cmon Dustin!

your slipping! tell him the details.. : )

you'll need a new Flexplate ( a flywheel for an automatic if you didnt know)
there are sources for AMC cars for these, I beleive they are well under$100 (a 401 requires a 401 flexplate)

if the ignition systems are differnt, just pull the distributer from teh newer motor, and drop it into the older 401 so you can use your later type elec ignition system.

since your 401 should have a 4bbl carb, and most Gwags didnt, you might need to slightly reroute your fuel supply line, and also fabricate ( or Junkyard find) a way to connect the tranny kickdown lever to a 4bbl carb ( the trans wont live long without this device)

and youll have to have a GOOD radiator, especially if they bored the 401 when it was rebuilt, these things are pretty hard to cool

everything else from the engines will ( should) interchange, so if one has a better or newer alternatr ( possible) then use the one thats currently in the Gwag, and ditto for the Power Steering..

probably some other stuff, im missing, but its basically a VERY easy swap..

check out the IFSJA website and list for more info if you havent already, the mailing list is GREAT





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1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 11:22 AM
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Re: Engine Swap

Ok Ok... I was in a hurry... As far as flex plates go you can find one for a turbo 400 fairly easily... Now IF you have a TF727 thats a
different story... I just went through this and it was only used in 2 years in a Javelin. I cant rememeber what the years were but
the FSJ or the AMC board should be able to tell you real quick. Im not sure about the kick down Matt... I 'think' it should bolt right in.
Dependin on what tranny he has..Maybe i missed it somewhere but i didnt see which it was. I know the 400 has an electronic
kickdown but the 727 is a mess whn it comes to that stuff... If i think of anything else Ill post it.

BTW I got my jeep and the 401 is nice and healthy ) The linkage to the 727 was one of the problems that we had. Im driving it like a
full manual right now (going to put the B&M full performance kit into it) . I dunno how safe that is but it seems to be doing fine. I dont
think my reareands gonna be there for long though.
Later
Dustin
its started to get the old poping noise. Looks like id better get those other axles done quick!

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 12:07 PM
 
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Re: Engine Swap

He has TF727, the kickdown linkage will bolt to everything and maybe the carb ( i dont know, ive never had an 4bbl with that automatic)

the flexplates for older AMC cars with 401 V8s and Tf727 trannys are available aftermarket ( though IM not sure where), I saw it on teh AMC list a while back..

if your valve body has been modified for full manual operation itll live, otherwise its rough on it...esoecially if you have big tires and wimp gears..
what happened to the Kickdown I sold you? would it not fit a 4bbl?


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-01-2000, 11:35 PM
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Re: Engine Swap

How do you figure manually shifting is hard on the trans??

Even if you are manually shifting, you still need the linkage for the throttle valve

post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-13-2000, 01:57 PM
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Re: Engine Swap

The flexplate you need is for the AMC cars, '72 to '76, Matador or Javelin, and are around $50 at a tranny supply shop. Be sure to remove the spacer ring inside the crank of the 401 that reduces the size for the TH400 torque converter. It looks like a cam bushing. The 727 converter fits the crank only if the ring is removed! If you use the 360 2 barrel and manifold, you won't have any problem with smog or trans linkage, and the reliablity will be much improved too. Usually, the 4brl has the lower stud for the kickdown linkage and the adjustment should be able to allow for the added length needed to hook it up. Be sure to use the dampner off the 401 also as this is part of the balance too. Get a new fan shroud if your old one is broken or missing and a new thermal type fan clutch if it over a few years old. The factory 7 blade 19" fan is the best one to use. If you're not going to tow, the 3 row radiator is fine if the fan and shroud are present. Use a 4 row if possible though. Hope this helps, good luck!

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