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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-18-1999, 10:15 PM
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Trooper 2.3L Head

I am in the process of replacing the head/rebuilding a 2.3L '86 Trooper (bent exhaust valve and overheated head) and am looking at sources for replacement heads with valves. The best appears to ba an AMC head from aluminumheads.com (thanks <Ed>). Does anyone have a source for Baker heads?

Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-20-1999, 05:15 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

I beleive the Baker head is an AMC head they market under their own name, only more expensive. You can get a lot more help at the ITOG Discussion Forum, check it out. Keep On Troopin'....ed mckelvy

www.itog.com

post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-28-1999, 09:15 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

thanks, Ed. The new head should be here in a few days (the AMC head from Aluminumheads). New, $479 with valves. The "Old Blue" should be back in action next week, and my son is driving it to the next Hatteras fishing trip the third week in Oct. Thanks for the tips and directions.
BTW, we may be adding one more Bronco to the stable (a '78), so I guess the signature line will have to change!

Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-14-1999, 07:12 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

I am in the process of overhauling my 86 trooper, if you have any suggestions or comments i would appreciate it. i would also like a pic if you have one.
Thanx Xander (Xtrooper)



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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-14-1999, 09:38 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

Hey Xander,
Well, the new head is on with a new radiator, I just need to find a few consecutive hours to run it in, then adjust the valves. Problems encountered: (1) fortunate on the exhaust manifold bolts; most came off OK, but had to leave a few studs in the head (returning it for core), then bought new studs for the new head, (2) the air pump line between the exhaust manifold and the intake that runs behind the motor (3/4" tube) had to be cut to clear the head removal, since the tube fitting on the exhaust manifold wouldn't budge, patched that with some flex hose, (3) the timing belt removal (for the cam replacement) did not go well, since the belt was off by one tooth; fixed that but did it at #1 TDC (which the manual recommends) instead of #4 TDC (which is the real setting, from a recommended source here). I plan to start an run it in next week (the truck is not going south to Hatteras this weekend...d*mn!, guess I'll have to run the '89 with the Bronco), and (4) I cross threaded #2 cyl spark plug in the new head, but was able to chase and clean it up.
I didn't get into the bottom of the motor, since the cylinders were clean with no ridge (in spite of 155K!). Hope you are as fortunate.
What problems are you seeing in your '86? I have had three '86's (retired two of them at 195K and 167K, respectively), and have done about everything to them. The one I am replacing the head on bent a #1 exhaust valve due to a failed timing belt tensioner; it also overheated due to a head leak and clogged radiator.
Send me a note if I can help.

Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-25-1999, 12:25 AM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

Just finished running in the new head, adjusted valves and retorqued the head and exhaust manifold fasteners, and it is GREAT! Just needs a timing tweak (still a little retarded; maybe that tooth should have been left the way it was?). Thanks, ED, great advice. Ol' Blue is up and back in action.
P.S. Bleeding the cooling system prior to startup: thought it was all full, but just in case, I jacked the front of the truck up about 24", and got a big burp from the motor back to the radiator (about a quarts' worth) when squeezing the lower radiator hose. Ensure you do this for similar work involving draining the cooling system.

Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-28-1999, 10:26 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

no vacuum idle timing was below zero BTDC, no wonder it ran like a dog. Balanced it out at 12 deg advanced with no vacuum, smooth idle, no spark knock and runs great. Have 22deg total advance at 3000 revs, so I figure i still have a vacuum leak somewhere. Of course, the exhaust is mincemeat, so compression is down since I am not seating the exhaust valves tightly. New exhaust coming this Monday (high-flow cat and 2-1/4" pipes), so we'll see how it is after that.


Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-05-1999, 10:08 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

alright! exhaust is fixed, the only repair was to the exhaust gas line back to the intake that I mentioned I cut to clear head removal (NOT the air pump), and we welded that instead of replacing (the tube fittings at the exhaust manifold and bottom of the intake were siezed up). BTW, it is stainless, so pick the right stick if you have to weld it!
Now that the exhaust is tight, it runs with great compression at the previous timing settings. Depending on fuel economy for this tank, I may retard back toward 8-10deg. Passed inspection, ready to roll. AMC Heads are the right deal. Now for the heater core...and another cooling system drain/fill. OTOH, I think I'll just disconnect the heater lines at the firewall and raise them up above the radiator, instead of draining the system again.
At the same time, I lost the fuel pump on the '89 Trooper: PLEASE NOTE: You DO NOT need to drop the tank for a pump replacement on this truck (as the dealer and many shops will tell you, since it says so in their "estimate" book). There is room above the right rear frame rail to access the pump access at the tank top at the back of the right rear tire. Jacking it up to drop the wheel will give a little more room.

Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 12:20 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

Congrats on getting it back together! Be sure to adjust the valves after 500-to-1000 miles or so. They will tend to work themselves in initially, and will probably tighten up on you. After that, maybe another adjustment at 5000 miles for good measure, and then you should be able to go to 10,000 mile intervals. This adjustment regimen will ensure a long and happy life for that AMC head. Keep On Troopin'..........ed

post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 10:14 PM
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Re: Trooper 2.3L Head

Thanks, Ed. Couldn't have done it without you, especially the timing advice. I plan to readjust valves at 1000miles on the new head. I left them a little loose expecting them to tighten up, and I can definitely hear them (so they aren't burning!). All that's left is the heater core, and the clutch (linkage-type) is right at the top. Is there an adjustment for pedal travel on a non-hydraulic clutch, or is the clutch disc/pressure plate done?
The '89 is experiencing the 10yr itch; after the fuel pump, now I have a failed caliper in the rear (ate up the outside(?!) pad - never seen that before); it's up in the air on stands to be finished tomorrow. There is a $75 core on Trooper calipers, so they must be in high demand! I am also battling a slow leak somewhere in the clutch hydraulics; master cyl will be dry after about a week of driving if I don't add. No drips showing, and nothing on the firewall near the pushrod. Going to replace the slave cylinder tomorrow, and bleed it with the brakes (the driveway will probably qualify as a Superfund site when I'm done!).
Thanks again, and back at you....Keep on Troopin'

Dave
'79 Bronco
'89 Trooper
'86 Trooper II
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