> I am leaning toward the Torqueflite, as I prefer the auto offroad (it's much more forgiving, and for its torque
Be careful - the Torqueflight is not as forgiving about severe front driveshaft angles! You can't (easily - some folks have had success grinding the 727 case and pan a bit) squeeze a CV joint in for the front driveshaft to help accomodate steep angles associated with a spring-over-axle using stock springs or any higher. You can shim the tranny mount down some to alleviate the angles, but then it becomes a target for rocks.
> Which case is stronger and/or more versatile, the 20 or the 300? Which has a better aftermarket part availability?
> I would like to do a dual stick setup as well.
Both can be fitted with a twin-stick. The 20 is by far more plentiful - '67-'79 Scout IIs and a lot of the Jeeps used the same basic case. 2:1 low range. Tera Low 3.15 gearset is available for the stick-shift transmissions only.
The Scout II Dana 300 is a rare breed.. some 16,000 units made and used ONLY on 1980 Scout IIs and nothing else. It has the "Texas" bolt pattern like a Dana 20 has - not the round SAE pattern used on 1980-'86 Jeeps. Thus, while a Dana 20 is under $100, Jeep '300 is around $100, Scout II Dana 300s sell for anywhere from $350 (a fire-sale) to $800. They *do* have the 2.62:1 low range though. Slightly weaker unit with the aluminum tail housing, but Dana 20 cast-iron parts bolt right on. Look for the speed-o cable to enter the 'case from the passenger side on a D300.
Here's a trick swap for you if you don't mind doing some tranny work...
Get a 727 from an 80s Cherokee or Wag with the 727 and NP231 transfer case. Grab the mainshaft (I think that's what you need) and tail-housing/adapter for the NP231. Rebuild your IH 727 with the Jeep 'shaft and tail-housing, and instead of using the Jeep NP231, use the (cheaper) Jeep Dana 300 that'll bolt right in place. Cheaper replacement Dana 300s should you break one, too.
I think you can also get the Tera 4-1 gears for the Jeep '300 behind a 727, but I'm not sure.
>Regarding the lift, I plan on a SOA, as well as some newer, lifted springs. I checked out the Triangle Springs and
>found them to be a little bit pricey.
Think through your solution for the front driveshaft with the 727 first. You might get away with severely "clearancing" the U-joint yokes and running "stock" u-joints on an accelerated replacement schedule.. or it might just bind and you'll be "screwed"
I thought the Triangles are reasonably priced. Have you priced other lift kits for Scout IIs? They're almost all more expensive I thought.
Triangle can also sell you some NEW stock springs if you don't feel the need for a lot of lift.
>33" BFG MT, or maybe a 34" SSR. A lift in the region of 6-7" would suffice, I think.
Biggest problem with 33s and larger I've run into is the size of the rear wheel wells - they're 30.5" across. You either need a lot of spring lift with lowered bump stops, a body lift to keep the tub away from the tires, or a lot of body re-work to change the rear wheel well design and enlarge it. Or a combination.
If you have a body in good shape, I'd rather see a 1" or 2" body lift (3" if you must) to clear 33s than going nuts with suspension lift. Lower center of gravity, less body roll, more pliant suspension/better ride..
> What info can you give me about steering mods to eliminate any goofed up geometry of a lift of this height?
The most common solution with an SOA is a "Z" draglink bent to clear the springs and attach to the stock draglink location.
The only other good solution is to get into some more mix n' matched parts - flat-top style knuckles from a Chevy, which means mixing and matching everything from the knuckle-out, and then going with a custom steering arm to use a nearly flat and straight draglink above the top of the springs.
is working on some arms tailored to the needs of a Scout II. I have a TriCountyGear arm on my race truck, but I don't consider it the "right" solution for a rock crawler because of it's very short length which results in a very "quick ratio" steering that over-works the p/s.
> Are there steering gear boxes that can be bolted in easily that can offer a close ratio lock to lock that you are
> aware of?
You want a fast ratio steering box? Are you planning on lockers and big tires? I think you'll want to avoid a fast steering box and instead go for "lots of assist"
If you really want quick ratio, use the stock long pitman arm, and a short custom cross-over/raised steering arm, and you'll get quick ratio (low assist) steering. My racer has probably 3 turns lock to lock of the wheel. It works the p/s over time even with the open diff'd 31" tires while moving. While not moving, it really complains when I try to turn, and the p/s fluid is always pretty hot.
>AC will be a necessity, so I won't be using the compressor for onboard air, but I do plan on putting together a
> CO2 system for air tools as well
AC and Air Comp can co-exist. I just finished getting the parts I need to put A/C in my Scout II. I plan on using a late-model (high efficiency) "Sanden" rotary style compressor mounted where the smog-pump would be to run the A/C, while using the stock York compressor in the stock location to run my air-tools.