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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-27-1999, 12:02 AM
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Purchasing a Scout

I am thinking of buying a Scout II... a daily driver, weekend trips in the woods. Any suggestions for the most reliable model year? Any years or models to avoid? Any characteristics to avoid (automatic or manual tranny)? In other words, for those of you who do drive a scout now, if you had to do it over again, which would you buy? Any problems with getting certain parts? I have plenty of time to look, I'm not exactly looking for the cheapest truck I can find.
I am OK at mechanical work, but not so good at sheet metal. Any years more likely to rust than others? Any models years with weak frames? Etc...
Thanks,
Sean


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-28-1999, 07:36 AM
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Re: Purchasing a Scout

Sean and board,
Buying a Scout II huh......Ok I can give you some generalizations here. Scout II's are broken down into roughly 3 groups. First year for the II began in april of 71 to somewhere in the middle of 74. 74 was a transition year for running gear on the Scout II. 75 to 79 the running gear stayed pretty much standard. 79 to 80 saw a bunch of changes both cosmetic and underneath. All scout II's built from 71-75 were 100" wheelbase. Beginning in 76 the 118" "Scout Traveller" was also produced. Understand that all scouts came from the factory with the "standard rust package". It was of those things that could not be deleted at the factory. In short rust is a big big issue. Areas to be very very concerned about are the front cab body mounts under the drivers and passangers feet, and the floor areas. Rockers,lower front fenders down low and espically the rear wheelwells are very rust prone. Frames are usually not an issue except for local patches like where the steering box and spring perches attach. 118" frame is an 8" plug welded in at the factory otherwise same frame as the 100". Sheetmetal.....The scout II from the doors forward basically the same except for the grill for all years.(a 73 fender will fit any scout built etc.) Doors to taillights 100" or 118" sheetmetal. The regular scout (100" wb) has a steel removable travell top. The traveller ("118") has a fiberglass removable top. Year you might want to avoid is the 74 account various changes. 71 to 73 scouts had drum brakes and a smaller front axle. 74 came with or with or with out disc brakes in front, and had the larger front axle or maybe not. 78 1/2 to 80 saw some minor cosmetic changes to the exterior lighting. 1980 would have some improved rust proofing and the lower ratio Dana 300 xfr case.Prices vary from free to the moon. By now most scouts are kit cars anyway, so ask alot of questions about whats been changed. Wiring on scouts was not outstanding from the factory and with age things are worse. If you can find one that has been re-wired, your reliability will soar. Check the FAQ and everything else at http://www.binderbulletin.org. This sight will give you the vendors for parts and all further info you need.


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Bill in San Diego

post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-29-1999, 05:25 PM
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Re: Purchasing a Scout

One other thing is that, as with any used car, you don't always get what you pay for. My Dad bought a Scout II that had 'just been sitting' around for a couple of years. He picked it up for $150, and it runs like a horse! Although it does have rust, it's not very bad (rockers & lower rear quarters only). By the same token, I've seen people asking $3000 for Scouts that are some of the worst I've ever seen. Get educated about these vehicles by researching them on the net like the last post mentioned.There is a ton of info on these on the 'net.
Technically speaking their 'book value' has gone up recently, but not astronomically, yet! Good luck & keep us posted!
That said, it boils down to deciding on the truck you want and determining what it will take to get it into the shape you'd like if it's not already.


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-29-1999, 10:20 PM
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Re: Purchasing a Scout

Both replies made very goods points. Thanks, and I WILL keep you posted!
Sean

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